Kasuga Taisha in Nara, one of the country’s foremost shrines, is having its twenty-year renewal at the moment, and since the four honden are being rebuilt and repainted, the kami have been taken out to temporary quarters. It means that visitors have a rare chance to go into the usually off-limits Sanctuary where the kami normally resides. To mark the occasion, ABC television channel ran a short programme showing a couple guided round the shrine by a priest.

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Aerial view of the main Kasuga complex. It is set in a wooded area next to the famous deer park, and there are 61 subshrines in all.

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The two visitors express excitement at being able to see the honden.

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On the approach are rows of stone lanterns, donated by people in the past in hope of ‘worldly benefit’.

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These ‘golden lanterns’ are rather special, donated by Tokugawa Ieyasu for a young relative

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Inside the shrine are some 1000 hanging lanterns. ‘There are various designs,’ one of the visitors notes.The lanterns are lit up for the special Manto Matsuri at Obon.

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The Chumon gate, normally closed so as to prevent access to the honden.

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Finally the couple are led nto the most sacred area of the shrine, normally off-limits to all but the priests.

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The restored honden are immaculate in their new coats of paint.

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Pictures too have been restored, first time for forty years.

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To the side of the honden are the temporary quarters of the kami, to whom the group make their prayers.

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Some of the treasures in the Kasuga museum include these splendid and huge taiko drums donated at the time of Hideyoshi

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This splendid bird must have been seen as divine in ancient times, flying gracefully and mysteriously between worlds.

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One of Kasuga’s subshrines boasts a popular ‘enmusubi collection of heart ema.

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The young man however preferred to head for another of the subshrines where he earnestly prayed for winning the lottery, or at any rate getting lots of money.

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For a detailed description of Kasuga Taisha, see p. 160 in Shinto Shrines: A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan’s Ancient Religion by Joseph Cali and John Dougill