Author: John D. (Page 59 of 202)

Hattori Tenjingu shrine visit

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The ‘back entrance’ close to the Hankyu station gives access to a once flourishing and most intriguing shrine

It’s some time since I made an excursion to a new shrine, so I was intrigued to see what Hattori Tenjingu on the edge of Osaka had to offer.  A surprising amount, was the answer.  Packed into the small confines of the once expansive shrine are all manner of unusual features.  And it has an intriguing history too.

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Sugawara no Michizane, whose spirit was deified as the kami Tenjin

The shrine owes the first part of its name to the Hata clan, who are closely associated with the introduction of weaving (Hata-ori).  Green Shinto has written a series about their connection with Kyoto, and one presumes this shrine was one of their stopping points in the fifth century on their route inland from the Inland Sea (Osake Jinja on the coast also has strong Hata connections).

The second part of the shrine name, Tenjin, refers to the deified name of statesman, Sugawara no Michizane (845-903).  He was unfairly expelled in 901 from Kyoto to Dazaifu in northern Kyushu, and early in the journey he suffered from a leg ailment and called in at this shrine to pray to the medicine kami, Sukunahikona no mikoto.  Because he was healed, the shrine acquired a reputation for its curative and protective power in terms of legs which it has kept up to the present day.

There are panels at the shrine which show it in the past, and it’s quite plain from the bustling scenes that it once occupied a huge area and that it was a popular place for pilgrimage.  Now the former Sando (approach path) consists of a shopping arcade, and the shrine’s outer reach is indicated by a sacred tree which is encased within the Hattori Tenjingu station on the Hankyu line, rising splendidly skywards from out of its roof.

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The first thing you see when arriving at the Hattori Tenjingu station (Hankyu line) is the sacred tree which stands on the Osaka-bound platform. Once it stood on the shrine’s grounds. Harmony of man and nature?

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Kato san, head priest of the shrine for the past seventeen years, in front of the resplendent Worship Hall, repainted just three years ago

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One unusual feature is a small building housing three gravestones (centre) with a spirit shelf for ancestral spirits (soreisha on the right) and one for the war dead (shoukonsha on the left). The gravestones may have acted as vehicles (yorishiro) into which spirits descended.

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These three stone monuments represent notable talents of Sugawara no Michizane, of which he became a guardian deity: from left to right, poetry, painting and calligraphy. As with any Tenjin shrine, Hattori Tenjingu is associated with academic learning and students come here to pray for success in exams.

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There’s an Inari subshrine, added by the present priest’s father some forty years ago, with a characteristic vermilion torii tunnel.

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Inside the Inari shrine, unusually, are twelve small subshrines for each of the Chinese zodiac animals.

Taishi Kato demonstrates how to sit in the leg purification stone chair and pray for protection

Taishi Kato, son of the head priest and now ‘gon-negi’ of the shrine, demonstrates how to sit in the special ‘leg protecting’ stone seat

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There’s a Gamba Osaka banner supporting the local football team, who patronise the shrine in order to protect their legs

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A sample of the many shoes left by worshippers in gratitude for the alleviation of leg and foot problems (there is a collection too of straw sandals dating back to Edo times).

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The young priest points out the large candle and incense holder in front of the Haiden. Incense holders are typically found at Buddhist temples and a relic from the syncretic practice of former times

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Tenjin shrines always feature an ox, the familiar of the kami, though this one unusually has a blackened face from the candles set before it

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The present priest’s father, full of divine inspiration, carried out many ‘split spirit’ rites and created the large number of subshrines (known as ‘massha’) in the compound. This Ebisu shrine is a case in point, being a divided spirit from Nishinomiya Shrine. (Ebisu is the only indigenous kami of the Seven Lucky Deities.)

 

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On departure, there’s time before the train comes to make a final prayer at the station’s ‘sacred tree’ (shinboku), saved from destruction through the entreaties of the local population

First Japanese?

An exciting experiment is being carried out in the Okinawan islands which might replicate the first coming of human beings to the Japanese islands 30.000 years ago.  They came from the south, from Taiwan, presumably as part of a northward surge in the great expansion eastwards out of Africa undertaken by early mankind.  What gods they brought with them we may never know, but they sure lived close to the elements and one might presume that awe and gratitude played a large part in their spirituality….

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Straw boats set sail to test Taiwan-Japan settler theory
JIJI, KYODO JUL 17, 2016

YONAGUNI, OKINAWA PREF. – Two primitive straw canoes departed from Yonaguni Island on Sunday morning to reproduce a 75-km ocean voyage thought to have brought the first settlers to the Japanese archipelago about 30,000 years ago.

The voyage has “started at last,” said lead researcher Yosuke Kaifu, head of the Division of Human Evolution at the National Museum of Nature and Science. “We want to know what people 30,000 years ago did.”

The project, involving researchers from the National Museum of Nature and Science, the Okinawa Prefectural Museum & Art Museum, Nanzan University and others, is designed to test a theory that the early ancestors of the Japanese came to Okinawa from Taiwan, then part of the Eurasian continent.

The destination for the experiment is Iriomote Island. If all goes smoothly, the canoes, whose crews are navigating by the sun and the stars, are expected to complete the journey Monday afternoon. Both islands are part of Okinawa Prefecture.

Each boat contains a crew of seven, including one woman and a skipper, as part of the project. The group of 14, which includes marine adventurers, plans to row more than 30 hours to get to the remote island. Their average age is 35.

The canoes, about 6.4 meters long and 1.3 meters wide, are made of raupo, a type of bulrush that grows naturally on Yonaguni and is known locally as himegama, which is similar to narrow leaf cattail.

They are modeled after reed boats still in use on Lake Titicaca, on the border of Peru and Bolivia. Their departure was initially scheduled for Tuesday morning but was postponed due to bad weather.

Researchers hypothesize that ancient settlers traveled to Japan from Taiwan through the Nansei Islands, where many relics dating back to more than 30,000 years ago have been discovered. They believe the boats were made of grass as no woodworking tools have been found.

If the voyage to Iriomote succeeds, a similar trip from Taiwan to Yonaguni will be attempted next July. “Through the sea journey, we will be able to visualize our ancestors’ lives, which are hard to imagine merely through relic surveys,” Kaifu said.

Using a crowdfunding campaign, the national museum has raised ¥26 million for the project from about 870 people.

After 28 hours at sea, the boat arrives in Iriomote Island, proving that interisland voyages in such craft were possible

July 18: After 28 hours at sea, the boat arrives in Iriomote Island, proving that interisland voyages in such craft were indeed possible

Gion Festival Parade

The parade begins with the chigo getting into position at the front of the leading Naginata float

Last year was a historic year for the Gion parade, with two processions being held for the first time after 49 years.  This follows the inscription in 2009 of the festival as an ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage’ by Unesco.  “The floats come in two varieties,” states the registration, “yama floats with platforms decorated to resemble mountains and hoko floats dominated by tall wooden poles originally intended to summon the Plague God so that he could be transformed into a protective spirit through music, dance and worship.”

Today is the major procession, with 23 floats taking part.  A week later will be the second procession, containing 10 different floats.  There are various preliminary rituals and events, but the grand parade kicks off at 9.00 on July 17th with the tall Naginata float.

Last year there were more foreigners than usual amongst the crowd, according to the tv commentators, leading to greater vocal appreciation of the manoeuvres involved.  On the other hand there were fewer foreign participants (just 9 of them) because of a stipulation by the International Exchange Center that volunteers should take part in both today and next week’s procession.

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For a report on Yoiyama (the eve of the parade), see here or here or here.  For the removal of the kami into the mikoshi (portable shrine), see here.  For a talk about the festival by Catherine Pawsarat, click here.  For the Western input, see here, and more about chigo here.  The washing ritual of the mikoshi, here, more about the floats here, and the return of the mikoshi to Yasaka Jinja here.

One of the many pre-parade rituals is the purification of participants, such as these ‘chigo’ from the Ayagasa float

 

The Naginata float is a teeming mass of humanity reaching up to the skies, with men perched on the roof eight meters off the ground

 

The order of the procession is different every year, and this year the float with Jingu Kogo was second in the parade. The shamaness holds a fishing-rod with which she caught ‘ayu’ fish, used for divination.

 

As each float passes the presiding official, a representative has to show the official certificate detailing their position in the parade

 

During the procession there are dance and musical events for the entertainment of the kami, as here with a demon masked partipant holding a drum for his companion to beat

 

Each community turns out in its best livery to support their neighbourhood float

 

Getting the cumbersome wooden floats to turn round corners is quite an operation, since the wheels are fixed and cannot change direction. Turning involves slipping bamboo strips beneath the wheels.

 

Today’s procession in full flow, with two different types of float evident ‘yama’ and ‘hoko’

Gion Parade (Eve)

Float lanterns light up the Kyoto night in a happy throng, catching the attention of the milling crowds

The month long Gion Festival is reaching a climax tonight and tomorrow morning.  The evening of the 16th is the so-called Yoiyama, the night before the big parade when floats are dressed in all their finery with last minute entertainment as people flock around them to get as close as they can.  For a few blissful hours the roads are closed to traffic and the streets are packed with happy revellers….

Of Kyoto’s Big Three Festivals, Gion is truly the people’s festival!  Aoi Matsuri centres around imperial messengers.  Jidai Matsuri was an ideological construct for the Meiji government.  But once a year over a million people dress up and reclaim the streets of Kyoto in carnival atmosphere.  Sticky, humid and crowded it may be – but in the display of convivial celebration, the city’s residents show how good spirits can overcome the demons that once spread misfortune and the plague.  And tomorrow morning at 9.00 the grand parade kicks off to welcome the mikoshi from Yasaka Jinja.  (For the removal of the spirit-body (goshintai) into the mikoshi, see here. For a report of last year’s event, see here; for the parade itself, see here.)

Musicians high up in the naginata float play for the assembled crowd


As always in Japan, traditional craftsmanship is both awesome and aesthetic (no nails are used at all).

 

The sales staff at one of the stalls, dressed for the evening’s work

 

Suzuka Gongen, a syncretic goddess whom legend says expelled a demon on the Tokaido pathway between Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo). The deity, also known as Seoritsu-him no kami, has her own float and is protectress of the Suzuka checkpoint near Ise.

 

Each float has treasures and tapestries to display, some with foreign provenance and intriguing histories

 

Folk heroes Benkei and Yoshitsune are displayed on the Hashi-benkei float

 

Some of the displays are exquisitie

 

Some of the displays are startling!

 

And the great thing about this premier people’s festival is that you can wander around and see all this for free

Zen and Shinto 17: Sun and Moon

Clever lighting effect created this round drum-sun-mirror preceding the production

Sun or full moon, the circle is a powerful symbol

In thinking about the complementary nature of Zen and Shinto, the thought struck me how Shinto is associated with the sun (Amaterasu) and Zen with the moon (enlightenment).  This leads to some interesting comparisons in the way the two religions balance each other, like day and night indeed.

The sun is worshipped in the form of Amaterasu at the nation’s most important shrine, Ise Jingu.  It is at the heart of the national consciousness, emblazoned across the national flag. Nippon is literally ‘the origin of the sun’, and Japan the land of the rising sun.

The moon ‘singularly attracts the Japanese imagination,’ wrote D.T. Suzuki. Certainly it is central to Zen thought. ‘Each language has a word for the moon, but it’s not the real moon. The word is like a finger pointing in the direction of the moon.  Don’t confuse one’s finger with the moon,’ says James Austin in Zen and the Brain.

As the spirit of the sun, Amaterasu signifies the all-encompassing light shed on the nation by the imperial dynasty to which she gave birth.  Such is the thinking at the heart of Shinto mythology.  Historically, it could be said this ‘light’ derives from the late seventh century, when the notion of a solar ancestor for the Yamato dynasty was officially promoted.

One world! The sun rises on all alike...

The sun rising over Japan.

In the 10 Ox-herding Pictures that describe the stages of Zen practice, no. 8 is a full moon, symbol of enlightenment.  Round, empty, shining, the circular shape is a symbol of oneness and the neverending cycle of life.

Both the sun and moon are mesmerising globes, which govern life on earth. Both are much celebrated in verse.  Both are round and bright, like mirrors.  Go to shrines and you’ll often see a mirror on the altar.  In temples too, there may be a mirror on the altar.  In both cases keeping the mirror of the soul clean and free of dust is an essential principle of the religion.

In Shinto the cleanliness of the mirror is tied to the purity of the kami. In Zen the cleanliness of the mirror is tied to one’s Buddha nature.  Sincerity and selflessness are central to both.

The sun is yang and outward in nature.  It’s a symbol behind which to unite in collaborative action. Shinto festivals are noisy affairs with a strong territorial aspect to the parading around of the mikoshi with its spirit-body.

Tonight's blood moon rises behind Kyoto's Eastern Hills

The full moon rising over Kyoto’s Eastern Hills

The moon is yin and inward.  It’s a symbol of introspection and reaction.  Buddha nature lies within, and Zen practitioners sit in silence while following a lifestyle of disciplined self-restraint.

The sun is constant in shape, yet the moon changes on a daily basis.  Shinto tends to celebrate the world as it is; Buddhists strive for self-improvement.  All things revolve around the sun, as the national well-being is thought to centre on the emperor.  Zen sees the monthly cycle in terms of the cycle of existence.

Japanese religion is, and remains, fundamentally syncretic.  In the symbiosis of Shinto and Buddhism, light and dark come together in the harmonious combination of sun and moon.  D.T. Suzuki maintained it was Zen that was at the heart of the culture, yet the moon is but a reflection of sunlight.  After all, the sun shines on everyone; only a few search in the dark for moonbeams.

The real heart of Japanese culture is Shinto.

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For further thoughts on the role of circular mirrors in Shinto and Zen, please click here.

Full moon at Shimogamo Jinja

Full moon over Shimogamo Shrine. A Zen symbol in harmony with the Japanese soul.

Nippon Kaigi (nationalist Shinto)

The news this morning that prime minister Abe Shinzo’s political allies have won a two-thirds majority in the Upper House elections does not bode well for the future direction of Japan.  Or Shinto…  (The article below is a truncated version of the original.)

For a youtube video (6 mins) exposing the group’s growing influence, see here.

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The Religious Cult Secretly Running Japan
by Jake Adelstein and Mari Yamamoto in The Daily Beast July 10, 2016


Nationalist Abe ShinzoNippon Kaigi, a small cult with some of the country’s most powerful people, aims to return Japan to pre-WWII imperial “glory.” Sunday’s elections may further its goal.

TOKYO — In the Land of the Rising Sun, a conservative Shinto cult dating back to the 1970s, which includes Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe and many of his cabinet among its adherents, finally has been dragged out of the shadows.

The group is called Nippon Kaigi (Japan Conference) and is ostensibly run by Tadae Takubo, a former journalist turned political scientist. It only has 38,000 members, but like many an exclusive club, or sect, it wields tremendous political influence.

Broadly speaking, Shinto is a polytheistic and animist religion native to Japan. The state-sponsored Shintoism promulgated here before and during World War II also elevated the Emperor to the status of a God and insisted that the Japanese were a divine race –– the Yamato; with all other races considered inferior.

Nippon Kaigi originally began in the early 1970s from a liberal Shinto group known as Seicho No Ie. In 1974, a splinter section of the group joined forces with Nippon o Mamoru Kai, a State-Shinto revival organization that espoused patriotism and a return to imperial worship. The group in its current state was officially formed in May of 1997, when Nippon o Mamoru Kai and a group of right-leaning intellectuals joined forces.

The current cult’s goals: gut Japan’s post-war pacifist constitution, end sexual equality, get rid of foreigners, void pesky “human rights” laws, and return Japan to its Imperial Glory. With Japan’s parliamentary elections to be held on July 10, the cult may now have its chance to dominate politics completely. If the ruling coalition wins enough seats, the door will open to amending Japan’s modern democratic constitution, something that has remained sacred and inviolate since 1947.

Prime minister Abe on his controversial visit to Yasukuni (courtesy Japan Times)

Prime minister Abe on his controversial visit to Yasukuni Jinja (courtesy Japan Times)

Indeed, for Japan, these elections may be a constitutional Brexit—deciding whether this country moves forward as a democracy or literally takes a step back to the Meiji era that ended more than a century ago. Then, the Emperor was supreme and freedom of expression was subservient to the interests of the state.

The influence of Nippon Kaigi may be hard for an American to understand on a gut level. But try this: Imagine if “future World President” Donald Trump belonged to a right-wing evangelical group, let’s call it “USA Conference,” that advocated a return to monarchy, the expulsion of immigrants, the revoking of equal rights for women, restrictions on freedom of speech—and most of his pre-selected political appointees were from the same group.

Abe, a third-generation politician, is the grandson of Nobusuke Kishi, who was Japan’s minister of munitions during WWII and arrested as a war criminal in 1945 before becoming prime minister in the 1950s. Abe is a staunch nationalist and historical revisionist, who also served as prime minister, from 2006 until 2007, before resigning abruptly mid-term. His ties to the Nippon Kaigi organization go back to the ‘90s.

The Asahi Shimbun and the independent press in Japan have called this year’s campaign “The Hidden Agenda Elections.” Local media have reported that the LDP and partner political parties have made sure their candidates avoid mentioning constitutional revision in their stump speeches.

The ideology behind Prime Minister Abe and his cabinet had received only modest scrutiny from Japan’s mainstream media until this May.  All that changed with the publication of the surprise best seller, Nippon Kaigi No Kenkyu (Research into Japan Conference) by former white-collar worker turned journalist, Tamotsu Sugano, on April 30.

Japan’s leading constitutional expert, Setsu Kobayashi, who is also a former member of Nippon Kaigi, says of the group, “They have trouble accepting the reality that Japan lost the war” and that they wish to restore the Meiji era constitution. Some members are descendants of the people who started the war, he notes.

Despite Nippon Kaigi’s small numbers overall, half of the Abe Cabinet belongs to the Nippon Kaigi ‘National Lawmakers Friendship Association’, the group’s political offshoot. Prime Minister Abe himself is the special advisor. Former Defense Minister Yuriko Koike, who is running for Governor of Tokyo, is another prominent memberSankei Shimbun and others have reported that Nippon Kaigi even tried to pressure the publisher, Fusosha, into dropping the book on April 28.

The protest letter sent to the publisher was surprisingly under the name of the group’s secretary general, Yuzo Kabushima, not the name of the Chairman Tadae Takubo. Kabushima is a staunch Emperor worshipper and was a key member of Seicho No Ie’s student movement. (Sugano argues in his book that Kabushima is the person really running the organization.

Under prime minister Abe Shinzo, nationalist groups have been emboldened, such as this paramilitary group worshipping legendary first emperor, Jimmu, at Kashihara Jingu.

Under prime minister Abe Shinzo, nationalist groups have been emboldened, such as this paramilitary group worshipping legendary first emperor, Jimmu, at Kashihara Jingu.

Despite the threatening tone of the letter, the publisher didn’t budge. Originally, only 8,000 copies of the book were printed. It’s now on it’s fourth printing with over 126,000 copies sold. Five other books have now been printed on the group; magazines are running front-page stories about them.

Suddenly, Nippon Kaigi is very visible. Sugano is surprised and relieved to see Nippon Kaigi and its influence on national policy finally getting attention. He himself is a political conservative who graduated from the University of Texas with a degree in political science before returning to Japan over a decade ago. While he was living in Texas, where he picked up a bit of an accent, he noticed how the Christian evangelical movement exerted political influence and sees some parallels in their methods and those of Nippon Kaigi.

Sugano was still a white collar worker aka “salary-man” when he first became aware of the existence of Nippon Kaigi. Back in 2008, Sugano recalls the shift he felt in the atmosphere on the streets. “Crazy people were starting to speak out,” he says. Protests lead by groups, such as the anti-foreigner hate speech group Zaitokukai were more noticeable. He saw an ugly escalation of their activities with each passing day.

He found these hate speech movements troubling and started to infiltrate their protests, documenting the events in photos and recordings. In order to understand the motives of members and supporters, he started to dig into the conservative publications often referenced in their online comments.

Nippon Kaigi flags at Yasukuni Jinja

The contributors that wrote for these publications puzzled him. Many were established in their field, journalists and academics, all contributing on topics unrelated to their expertise. This peculiar pattern helped him connect the dots: they all seemed to be members of one group. That realization led him down the rabbit hole, where he found the revisionist wonderland that is Nippon Kaigi.

Nippon Kaigi, he found, used neto-uyo (cyber right wingers who troll anyone on the internet they feel writes negatively of Japan), intellectuals, politicians, and closet sympathizers in mainstream media to exert considerable influence on policy and public opinion.

That included getting the Japanese government to reinstitute the Imperial Calendar, which was banished by the U.S. occupation government. It’s 2016 in the West, but under the Imperial Calendar, based on the reign of the Emperor, it is year 28 of the Heisei era. The system is so confusing that many reporters in Japan carry a handy chart to translate the Imperial Calendar dates into Western time.

While several recently published books and articles paint a picture of a masterful Machiavellian organization that has skirted the law to avoid having to register as a political group, Sugano believes they are primarily reactionary with no clear idea what they want to do once their goals are achieved.

“They have worked steadily and stealthily with local politicians and political lobbies to oppose things like gender equality, recognition of war crimes and the comfort women [sex slaves during WWII], women using their maiden names after marriage etc. It’s anti-this and anti-that but has no vision of the future.”

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From Japan Today on July 14, 2016, by Mari Yamaguchi

Founded in 1997, Nippon Kaigi has strived to revise the constitution to restore traditional gender roles, increase imperial worshipping and put public interest before individuals. The group is believed to be behind Abe’s comeback in 2012 and has become increasingly influential.

Their grass-roots movement backed by Shinto shrines and other new religious groups has a growing membership that reportedly includes many of Abe’s Cabinet ministers and hundreds of national and local lawmakers.

The organization holds lectures and other events to spread its views and defends Japan’s wartime atrocities while accusing China and South Korea of lying or exaggerating their suffering. It also believes the U.S. postwar occupation brainwashed Japanese with guilt and that education since the war was self-degrading.

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Always keep the rising sun in your heart, says a poster put out by Jinja Honcho

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From the Japan Times article, ‘For Abe it will always be about the Constitution’ by Debito Arudou July 31, 2016

For decades Abe and his minions at the ultranationalist Nippon Kaigi (Japan Conference) lobby group (of which most of Abe’s Cabinet are members) have made no secret that their primary goal is to make Japan “autonomous.” To restore Japan to an imagined state of glory based upon blood nationalism, returning power to a bred elite, reviving Japan’s military political power with a seat at the civilian policymaking table, and putting the duty on the people to follow the state, not the other way around.

That has always meant getting rid of that pesky American-written and “imposed” postwar “peace Constitution” that enshrines allegedly “Western” values of human rights and empowerment of the individual. No longer content to ignore the Constitution, Abe wants to scrap it.

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Related articles

Gion Festival bigger than ever

This year's poster advertising the main dates, with two different processions and the usual three days of yoiyama extended to four and two different processions. The poster float is the restored 'ofune', representing the boat on which Empress Jingu supposedly sailed.

This year’s poster advertising the main dates, with two different processions and the usual three days of yoiyama extended to four. The poster float is the restored ‘ofune’, representing the boat on which Empress Jingu supposedly sailed on her incursion into Korea.

It’s the biggest and most authentic of Kyoto’s ‘big three’ festivals.  It lasts a month.  It recently doubled up its main procession with an extra parade. And given the huge increase in tourist numbers this year, the 2016 Gion Matsuri looks like being one of the biggest and best yet.  The evenings before the main parade on July 17 are the times to wander the streets.  Get your yukata out and be prepared for fun, throngs and some rare treasures.  This is festival Japan at its most festive.

Gion Festival

Three golden “mikoshi” portable shrines leave Yasakajinja shrine en route to central Kyoto with hundreds of worshippers who take turns carrying the mikoshi on their shoulders on July 17, 2013. (Asahi Shimbun photo)

KYOTO    THE ASAHI SHIMBUN, July 5, 2016

–The ancient capital is once again in the grip of the Gion Festival, one of the three biggest events of its kind in Japan, which lasts for the month of July. This year’s festival kicked off on July 1 with a prayer for the event’s success, the first of many rituals, ceremonies and traditional parades through the city. “Yamahoko Junko,” the grand procession, is famed for its tall floats with “hoko” halberds displayed on their roofs, and is usually held on July 17 and 24.

A musician adds to the atmosphere of the Gion Matsuri in Kyoto

A musician adds to the atmosphere of the Gion Matsuri in Kyoto

In this photo feature, 10 images of Yamahoko Junko at the Gion Festival taken in the Showa Era (1926-1989) have been selected to show what has changed and what has stayed the same in the city of Kyoto. The photos also show how the festival has evolved through a period in time when society and the environment have gone through drastic transformations.

The festival is said to have originated between the eighth and 10th centuries with the purpose of warding off curses that were believed to have caused frequent natural disasters and plagues in Kyoto. A series of events are held to invite the three gods enshrined at Yasaka Jinja in Higashiyama Ward on the east side of the Kamogawa river to central Kyoto.

The Gion Festival’s most important ritual is “Mikoshitogyo,” in which the three gods are brought to central Kyoto in “mikoshi” portable shrines over the river. The mikoshi will stay in the city center for a week before being returned to the shrine.

The Yamahoko processions are the highlights of the festival and traditionally held twice, before and after Mikoshitogyo. The tradition was “rationalized” to only one procession before the ritual in 1966, until the second procession was revived in 2014.

The floats are often called “moveable museums” as they are lavishly decorated with drapes, including historical tapestries and rugs that were once prized possessions of nobles and powerful people imported from as far as Europe hundreds of years ago, and donated for the festival.

This year, a new dragon figurehead has been reconstructed for the stem of “Ofunehoko,” a large boat-shaped float. The figurehead was lost in Japan’s civil war in 1864 during the Meiji Restoration. [The float was later destroyed by fire, but in 2014 after being restored at a cost of 120 million yen, it returned to the festival with its 16th century Portuguese side cloths and rich brocade tapestries. It represents the ship on which Empress Jingu supposedly returned from Korea in the 3rd century.]

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For the official schedule of events, see here. Click here for the 10-part Green Shinto series on the festival. For historical information, see here. Information about each individual float, here.

A yamahoko band playing Gion Festival music (Gionbayashi) during the parade of floats. (Photo courtesy Yomiuri Shimbun)

A yamahoko band playing Gion Festival music (Gionbayashi) during the parade of floats. (Photo courtesy Yomiuri Shimbun)

 

Some of the displays are exquisitie

Some of the displays are exquisite

Some of the floats are in narrow packed streets, difficult to negotiate even for the many pedestrians

Some of the floats are in narrow packed streets, difficult to negotiate even for the many pedestrians

Lanterns on one of the Gion floats in the evenings before the parade

Lanterns on one of the Gion floats in the evenings before the parade

Sales team at the ready

Sales team at the ready: each float has its own amulet and other religious items

The chigo takes a star role in the Gion procession

The chigo takes a star role in the Gion procession (to learn more click here)

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