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Kyoto’s love connection (Jishu Jinja)

They say Kyoto’s the most visited place on earth, outside Mecca.  Jishu Shrine stands within the Kiyomizu complex, which is the city’s no. 1 tourist spot and a magnet for bus tours.  To say it gets crowded is an understatement.  It’s why I haven’t really dared visit, but summoning up my courage this week I took the plunge and carefully choosing an offseason week day with bad weather, I made my way up the Kiyomizu slope.  It was packed!

Founded in 778, Kiyomizu has been famous since its foundation for the veranda platform offering spectacular views over the city nestling in the valley below.   It was rebuilt in 1633, and when you think of the traffic it caters to, it’s an amazing achievement.  Astonishingly, not a single nail was used in the construction.

Jishu Shrine gets a Green Shinto thumbs up for its outreach to foreigners.  Not only does it provide English-language explanations, but it has a leaflet which proclaims inclusivity: ‘There is only one human race even though there are many nationalities.’  The picture of the chief priest carries the caption, ‘International Rotary Club Member’ and the shrine’s good luck charms are clearly identified in English: a love charm will set you back Y500 but that for a good marriage will cost Y1000.  On the other hand, the promise of a good delivery is a bargain at Y500.

Jishu Shrine is small but packed with features.  It’s probably the best place I know of to get a concentrated understanding of Japan’s love affair with enmusubi (match-making).  Here’s a ten-step trip through the shrine.

1) Okuninushi

Once you’ve passed through the temple, you come to the shrine buried deep within the complex.  It’s one of the most famed match-making shrines in the country, dedicated to the ‘god of love’, Okuninushi.  Anyone looking for romance or marriage is sure to head here, and not surprisingly it’s full of young girls.

Okuninushi and the hare of Inaba

Okuninushi (literally, master of the country) is known as a land-builder, since he helped develop the Izumo kingdom.  However, he was forced to cede the land to the Yamato sometime around the beginning of the fifth century.  I’ve often heard it said that he’s associated with enmusubi because he subsequently married a Yamato princess and thereby cemented harmony between the kingdoms, tying the knot as it were in a big way (could that be why Izumo Shrine has the biggest shimenawa knot in Japan?).

From an eminent archaeologist at my university, however, I got a different version.  In the accord reached between Yamato and Izumo, he noted, the former took worldly power while the latter was given charge of spiritual matters.  It explains why even to this day all of Japan’s kami meet up in Izumo once a year in November. As host of the annual gathering, Okuninushi is the one who brings them together and sets up meetings.  By extension, he became the kami of connections in love matters too.  He not only initiates meetings, but helps ensure harmony.

2) How about the hare?

This is the year of the hare (or rabbit): how appropriate then that Okuninushi’s familiar should be a hare.  It’s an auspicious time to visit, but how did the association come about?

It’s all to do with the legend of the Hare of Inaba.  As punishment for deception, it had been skinned alive and was trying to seek help.  Okuninushi took pity on it and suggested a cure.  It turned out the hare was in reality a figure of importance, and in return for Okuninushi’s help the hare became his devoted ally and advised him how to get the princess he was seeking.

3) Love rocks!

Love is blind, but if you believe hard enough you can still stumble upon it

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The centrepieces of the shrine, almost literally, are two love rocks. They stand six meters apart. According to the shrine, if you can walk between the two stones with your eyes shut, then you are going to be lucky in love. Should someone help you, by shouting directions for instance, then you will find love but only through the help of another. The challenge is popular with schoolgirls, who thread their way through the other visitors with eyes shut and arms outstretched.

4) What’s with all the Daikoku?

Daikoku corner

Give Daikoku a pat to make your prayers come true

 

Move around the shrine and you keep seeing jolly Daikoku, one of the Seven Lucky Gods and associated with Buddhism. He originated in India as Shiva, and entered Japan from China where he evolved into a deity of wealth. (He was featured on the country’s first bank note.) He carries a treasure sack on his back, holds aloft a ‘wealth-pounding’ wooden mallet, and stands upon rice bales.

Now here’s a funny thing. The Chinese characters for Okuni can also be read as Daikoku. It means the two deities became conflated in the popular imagination, cementing the Shinto-Buddhist syncretism. It’s handy for worshippers, since in one go you can get love as well as wealth.

5) Hitogata

Placed at the sides of the shrine are a couple of tables with hitogata paper figures designed to wash away your problems.  These little cut-outs are similar to the sympathetic magic of medieval witchcraft, whereby dolls were used to represent others for healing purposes.  In this case you write your problem on the paper, place it in the water and it will all be washed away.  Not bad for Y200!

Hitogata

Washing away the problem

 

 

 

 

 

Comparing fortunes

6) Omikuji (fortune slips) 

Divination was an important part of ancient Shinto, and the practice is carried on today in the popular fortune slips of Shinto shrines.  Here the focus is on love and what’s in store romantically.  All over the shrine people are paused in contemplation of what’s in store for them.  Those with good luck might fold them up and keep them in their purse or pocket as a treasured item.  Those who are not so lucky will tie them up on the strings provided in the hope the kami will take care of it and free them for something better.

7) Ema (prayer plaques)

Ema prayer tablets sell at a brisk pace, and are hung up around the shrine.  They depict Okuninushi and his hare on one side; on the other are earnest requests for a love-match or marriage.  Some are simple enough, though others take a more creative or personal approach.

Someone with a crush on a particular young girl on the other

Okuninushi and the hare of Inaba on one side of the ema


 

8) Noticeboards of thanks

Watch out for the noticeboards with letters of thanks to the shrine from those who have found love or marriage following their visit.  These are obviously good propaganda for the shrine and are proudly displayed.  Some of them even come from abroad.

9) Witch’s curse

Okage myojin was a kami believed to grant prayers, particularly for femaies, and in the shrine are cedars associated with the deity.  They were used for ‘Ushinotoki mairi’ (visits at the time of the cow i.e. the dead of night at 2 a.m.).  It’s said that women would nail a straw doll on the cedar in order to put a curse on their enemies, and marks of the nails are still evident on the cedars.  The practice reminded me of trees in a graveyard in Oxford I once saw, which also bore the legacy of nails hammered into them on which prayers had been pinned.  In both cases the tree acted as an animistic conduit to the spirit world.

Nail holes are still evident on the sacred tree

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10) Water-splash Jizo (Mizukake Jizo)

Water purification for Jizo

Jizo is the Buddhist guardian of travellers and the underworld. What’s he doing in a Shinto shrine?  It’s a legacy of the Shinto-Buddhist fusion that for over a thousand years characterised this site. Though the Meiji government artificially separated the two religions in the late 1860s, they remain inextricably bound up still.

Here’s something not many people know, since it’s widely assumed that Jishu Shrine is part of Kiyomizu.  In fact since Meiji times it’s operated as a completely independent institution.  The fee one pays at the entrance to the complex is only to enter the temple.  The shrine is free.  If you walk in the back way to Kiyomizu (where everyone exits), you can simply walk up to Jishu Shrine without paying.  However, you won’t be able to enter the temple with its viewing platform because there’s a guard at the entrance.

Kiyomizu has been a popular place of pilgrimage since the ninth century.  If you dare to join the throngs and visit Jishu Shrine, you’ll find a small space that packs a punch in terms of interest.  It’s sure to make for a fascinating visit.  Who knows: you may just find love or marital harmony too!

Spot the oddity

Notice anything odd about this photograph?

 

It’s not the girls posing for a photo, nor the gaijin with a guitar on his back.  It’s the pair of shishsi (Chiinese lion) guardians, which unusually (exceptionally?) have both their mouths open.  The normal practice for the guardians is one open (representing ah, first sound of the alphabet) and one mouth shut (un, the last sound of the alphabet).  They thus symbolise the beginning and end of all things, and in Sanskrit terms equate to A-um i.e. Aum or Om.  All very cosmic, you might say.  So what’s going on here?  Ah-ah….

The pair of shishi (Chinese guardian lions) stand in front of the Kiyomizu complex.  This is Kyoto’s premier tourist sight and one of the most visited places on earth.  According to a tour guide I overheard, the shishi are laughing at all the visitors struggling their way up the slope towards the temple.  Even the one that’s supposed to have its mouth shut is moved to laughter by the exhausted pilgrims.  (On the other hand, I heard a different tour guide tell her group that the shishi was smiling with happiness at the number of visitors making their way to Kiyomizu.)

Either way it’s an intriguing way to begin one’s visit to the temple-shrine complex.  Though I’ve lived in Kyoto for twenty years, I’ve always avoided the tourist trap because of the crowds.  This week I summoned up my courage and, carefully choosing an overcast week day, went to investigate Kyoto’s famous love shrine, Jishu Jinja. More on that anon!

(For further information about guardian shishi, please see http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/shishi.shtml)

Pat Ormsby, Shinto priest (Part Two)

Conducting a 'jichinsai' (land-pacifying) ceremony before the construction of a new building

 

5) How is Shinto manifest in your daily life now? 

I think the more a person can be aware of the divine, the happier he or she will be and the more meaningful his or her life.  I have my kamidana in the room where I work, and whenever I look at it, I let go of all my anger or fears.  When I am outside, too, the mountains around me are all like friends witnessing my life.  When you see the world this way, it is a much happier place and it has a longer perspective than a single human life.  The purification prayers and rituals have such refreshing imagery.  Whenever I feel troubled, say I’ve had a nightmare, I can summon the great power of nature and feel secure in this world again.  My husband does not believe in gods or spirits outside of living beings, but he has also learned the Great Prayer of Purification (Ohharae no Kotoba) and appreciates its healing powers.  A person can be agnostic or atheist and still derive a lot of benefit from Shinto.  There is joy in maintaining cultural traditions and the wisdom of the elders and in interacting with others on a meaningful level in the community.

Pat Ormsby's altar, complete with Russian Orthodox picture

 

 6) What do you think of the idea that Shinto should be only for Japanese people?

When I first came to Japan, I thought Shinto was only for the Japanese.  Foreigners have this impression.  I have never heard the Japanese say this, though.  Maybe some of them think it, but they never say it.  I cannot imagine a group of humans anywhere without a small percentage of them being xenophobic.  The only objections to foreign participation I have encountered have been from Japanese who do not like Shinto for some reason.  A few Buddhist sects such as Nichiren denounce it, and there are bad memories from World War II.

Each time I go to a new shrine to participate in its public ceremonies, I get some nervous looks from the staff, but when I demonstrate knowledge of the protocol, they are invariably happy.  Just a week ago, due to a misunderstanding, I wound up participating (not as a priestess) in a ceremony heavily attended by conservatives.  When we inquired at the reception, my husband and I discovered we had not been invited, but the staff insisted we participate anyway.  They are surprisingly inclusive.  You recall the controversy of Yasukuni Shrine is not its exclusivity, but rather its inclusion of persons designated as Class A war criminals and also some foreigners who died for Japan, whose souls arguably might not want to be there.

Shinto is a set of traditions of which Japan is very proud.  When a foreigner shows sincere interest, they take it as a compliment and proof that there really is something special about Shinto.  “When in Rome, do like the Romans,” so when in Japan, why not observe Shinto?  But it goes beyond that, of course.  This is a method of bringing divine inspiration into your life and can be applied wherever you happen to be.  The prayers are in Japanese, though, so it takes a commitment to Japan really to practice it, unlike more cosmopolitan religions like Buddhism.

7) How would you like to see Shinto develop in future?

Shinto has got to appeal more strongly to younger Japanese.  There is too much materialism now and the young are really going to be in trouble if they fail to find their roots in something beyond the pleasures that money can buy or energy-intensive technology can provide.  I think foreigners understand this much better than young Japanese.  This is why foreigners in Japan are starting to turn to Shinto.  It helps you grow roots here.  It helps you understand the heart of Japan.

I like Shinto as it is.  There is a lot one can do without taking steps to join the priesthood, which conservative relatives at home are apt to oppose.  There are non-shrine forms of Shinto which are less formally organized and more highly participatory, such as Shugendo, which has strong Buddhist influence but emphasizes understanding nature.  I participate in Fuji-kyo, which is a folk religion centered around Mt. Fuji, where I live, with more elements of Shinto than Shugendo has.  In Shrine Shinto, the knowledge is codified and preserved, but in folk Shinto it is alive and moving.  The former involves more strict discipline and a remembrance of how things once were, and this is very important as we face a future in which old knowledge will once again play a crucial role in life.  This is why I practice both forms of Shinto.

Pat at the shrine where she trained and practises, Asakawa Konpira

For Part One of this interview, see the previous post below this.

Pat Ormsby, Shinto priest

1) I believe you may be the first qualified non-Japanese female priest.  How did that come about?

Actually, Rev. Ann Evans, an accomplished priestess who has a lovely shrine near Victoria, Canada, was the first non-Japanese Shinto priestess as far as I know.  [Reports suggest the shrine is non-functioning.] I presume she was licensed.  Her acquaintance with Shinto was through Rev. Koichi Barrish near Seattle, who had been introduced to Shinto through his knowledge of Aikido.  He was initiated through Tsubaki Grand Shrine in Mie Prefecture.  Within Shrine Shinto, Tsubaki Grand Shrine has been something of an internationally-minded maverick.  The shrine could get away with this (and also took a stand against militarism prior to and during World War II) on account of being too important to crush.  It was second in importance only to Ise Jingu nearby, but the shrine suffered economic hardship and decreased visibility as a result, however.

Kompira Shrine, more formally known as Kotohiragu, was more conservative, but because it represents the god of international trade and travel and because there was a Kompira branch shrine in Hawaii, they felt they had good reason to consider taking in a foreigner.  It is an international age after all.

My own introduction to Shinto was through efforts by a community of Japanese and foreigners to save a small mountain on the western edge of Tokyo, which had a Kompira shrine that had fallen into disuse.  The mountain, they learned, could be saved from destruction if the shrine were revitalized and ceremonies held on a regular basis.  Through this effort, many foreigners living in Tokyo were able to learn about Shinto, and were finding that it has some surprisingly positive aspects.  I wanted to help out in a meaningful way, so I offered to become a priestess.  Because I was raised as a Buddhist (in Salt Lake City), my family had no objection to this.

2) Could you tell us what the training involved?

The formal training of Kotohiragu Honkyo consists of a five-day course in Shikoku held annually in May.  Prior to attending, however, there is a tacit understanding that one will have already received much training and basic knowledge at one’s local shrine.  (I went with very little.)  One must of course be fluent in Japanese.  It is also considered normal to have memorized several standard prayers.

Kotohiragu, commonly known as Konpira Shrine, in Shikoku (photo by Joe Jones)

Course participants wear white hakamas and kimonos, participate in formal shrine ceremonies, practice and perform standardized ceremonies in groups, attend classes on subjects such as shrine history, prayer composition, specialized purification ceremonies, formal dressing, etc.  The teachers never fail to surprise and challenge the students.  This year, the course included a special ceremony for Japan’s recovery after the March disaster, for which we studied a special prayer written by the shrine’s historian.  There are written tests each year.  Students have given impromptu sermons, written essays on unfamiliar kanji and memorized new prayers.  They practice the discipline of a traditional Japanese lifestyle.  This has never been too hard, though, because everyone works as a group, and people with greater abilities help those with lesser.  By participating I have come to appreciate how Japanese society really works.

3) Does the licence qualify you to carry out ceremonies anywhere, or just at Kompira shrines? And do you currently hold a position?

My license qualifies me to perform ceremonies at any Shinto shrine.  The other factor is demand.  I hold no formal position, but would be welcome to participate or even lead ceremonies at the Asakawa Kompira Shrine in western Tokyo.  I just live too far to do that regularly.

4) What kinds of rituals and ceremonies have you presided over?

The kinds of ceremonies one can perform in Shinto are virtually limitless, and depend on the needs of one’s community.  Caitlin Stronell, our other foreign priestess at Asakawa Kompira has suggested “divorce ceremonies” and purification rituals for rape victims.  I have performed weddings, ground-breaking ceremonies, an exorcism of a haunted house, purification ceremonies for people who felt they were under a curse, formal mid-summer and New Year’s festivities, monthly shrine ceremonies and divination ceremonies involving fire or a resonating cask of steaming rice placed over boiling water.  I have also practiced, but not yet led, the misogi ceremony, involving purification by water, typically by standing under a waterfall.  In all cases, I would say the objective is to provide a venue conducive to experiencing divine presence by all participants. Anything you can do to help people emotionally or spiritually can become the focus of a special ceremony.

(For Part Two of the interview, click here.)

Sources of Japanese Tradition (Vol. 1)

Sources of Japanese Tradition Vol. 1.  ed. Wm. Theodore de Bary, Donald Keene, George Tanabe and Paul Varley   Columbia University Press, first published 1958; revised in 2002   524 pages
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This anthology of significant writings in the cultural formation of the country has long been an essential item on any student of Japan’s desktop.  Volume I begins with the very earliest records and covers the period up to 1600. Here we’re concerned with the sections about Shinto, which amount to about a quarter of the book.  As cultural background though, you could say that the whole book is relevant in one way or another.

Chapter I consists of early Chinese accounts, such as that of the shaman-ruler Himiko, here referred to as Pimiko.  Chapter 2 gives key extracts from the myths, as well as selections from early Norito prayers.  Chapter 4 deals with the influence of Chinese thought on the imperial construction by reference to the preface of Kojiki and extracts from the Nihongi.  Chapter 15 provides an overview of Shinto-Buddhism syncretism, together with the rise of Shinto consciousness following defeat of the Mongols thanks to the kamikaze divine wind.  Japan was proclaimed a shinkoku (land of the gods).

The Mongols made two abortive attempts at invasion, in 1274 and 1281

Throughout the book are commentaries, which not only provide an informative introduction to each section but also lead into translations that are unusually clear and accessible. Unlike many books dealing with medieval matters, this one is a joy to read!

The formation of Japan
Japan came late to the written word, and the book begins with Chinese accounts of the land of Wa, as the country was then known.  From these we learn that the 100 or so tribal communities of 1 BCE were reduced to some 30 by the mid-third century.  Water and mountains formed the Japanese consciousness from the outset.  The proto-Shinto of these times is said to consist of “a primitive and almost inarticulate group of cults”.  It was not until the early eighth century that the word ‘Shinto’ was coined to describe them, as a way of distinguishing the native tradition from Buddhism.

The first recorded use of a sun-motif flag is 701 by Emperor Mommu

With the defeat of the Wajin in Korea in 562, the hegemonic Yamato state moved towards nation-building in order to compete with China and a unified Korea.  Continental notions of solar worship raised awareness of the country’s location next to the Pacific, from out of which the sun rose each morning, and by 670 the name of Nippon (sun origin) is being used in print. It was at this time too that Emperor Tenmu ordered the compilation of Chinese-style histories, intended to show the divine descent of the imperial line.  Kojiki (712) and Nihon shoki (720) were the result.

Shinto-Buddhist syncretism
The book is particularly good at describing how Buddhism dominated Shinto in the syncretism that characterised the classical and medieval ages.  Not only were many of the country’s shrines run by Buddhist monks, but in some cases Buddhist statues served as the ‘spirit-body’ (shintai) for the kami.  In 937 comes the first mention of the honji-suijaku (essence-trace) theory, by which Buddhist deities were seen as the eternal essence and kami as their localised manifestation.  It meant that kami were reduced to avatars, and Buddhist priests prayed for their salvation.

A symbol of syncretism: Hachiman Daibosatsu – the kami as boddhisattva

The rise in kami awareness following victory over the Mongols led to a reaction against the Buddhist domination, which found its fullest expression in Yoshida Kanetomo’s audacious reversal of honji-suijaku. Shinto constituted the roots of the national culture, he asserted, which meant it had primacy over Buddhism and Confucianism.  Kami were the real essence, Buddhist deities a mere trace!

All of this is covered by the book in systematic manner, with explanations of the medieval theorising in simple, easy-to-follow terms.  The commentary is accompanied by short extracts from documents that are crucial to an understanding of the issues involved.  It’s a remarkable achievement, and the book has been rightly lauded for its accomplishments.  It is, quite simply, superb.

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Verdict: An essential item for anyone seriously wanting to understand the formation of early Shinto (and of the religious and aesthetic sensibilities of Japan in general).

Shamanism and Shinto


Buryat shaman: Siberian shamanism passed into Japan through Korea.

The Catalpa Bow is the standard account of early shamanism in Japan, but I always felt there was something missing, something to do with the nature of modern-day Shinto as fossilised shamanism.   Now I’ve found what I was looking for in an online article by William Fairchild entitled Shamanism in Japan, first published in 1962.  It’s great!

Fairchild first provides an overview of prior research, and Shinto mythology is examined from a shamanic viewpoint, highlighting such features as the cosmic pillar, Three Worlds and tree of life. This all ties in very much with Siberian shamanism.  There’s a section too on animal spirits, whereby kami in Japan are associated with particular animals, and descriptions of ecstatic practice such as the striking phenomenon of fox possession.

For myself I found the sections on Matsuri and Mikoism to be the most enlightening.  The former are viewed as having originated in shamanistic practice.  “The Descent of the Gods expressed itself in the institution of the matsuri,’ writes Fairchild.  “The main purpose of the matsuri was to learn the will of gods.”

 

Chigo of Gion Festival, originally a vehicle for kami possession (photo by Micah Gampel)


 
Drawing down the spirits
Possession by spirits was widespread in ancient Japan, but what Fairchild makes clear is that shamanic miko practice continued right up to the Meiji Restoration of 1868.  “The largest ecstasy practising group was the Miko,’ he writes. “Mikos performed both within the shrines and outside of the shrines. Shrine attached mikos were part of an elaborate organization. Those outside of the shrines had more freedom of action.”  Divining, driving out evil spirits, and sacred dance were their main activities.  Some performed in public rites, some for individuals and families.

Miko at Sumiyoshi Taisha: modern descendant of the miko-shaman

Other topics covered by Fairchild include shamanic aspects of shugendo mountain ascetism.  There is a section too on Ontake ko, which also practices mountain austerity.  In addition, there’s a survey of surviving shamanism in Japan, though having seen the tourist-orientated itako for myself I couldn’t help reading some of the descriptions with a degree of scepticism.  Even in the fifty years since Fairchild was writing, many of these ancient practices have died out in the face of secularisation and Westernisation.

Meanwhile, Shinto lives on, drawing down the spirits in ritualised manner and maintaining the tradition of ecstasy in its wild festivals of abandonment.  Though the shaman-priest has become a ritualist, beneath the surface the spirit lives on.

Once she would have been truly possessed

 

Historic celebration in Amsterdam

Paul de Leeuw, first non-Japanese priest

The Japanese Dutch Shinzen Foundation is today celebrating its 30th anniversary in an invitation-only event at the city hall in Amsterdam.  It’s a historic day for the internationalisation of Shinto, for it marks the establishment of the first shrine founded outside Japan by a non-Japanese.

Paul de Leeuw studied with the Yamakage Shinto School in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka-ken.  The Yamakage shrine is not a member of Jinja Honcho and follows a type of ‘koshinto’ or old-style Shinto.  You can read about it in The Essence of Shinto by Motohisa Yamakage, the 79th Grand Master (now retired and succeeded by his son).

When Paul de Leeuw was granted a license as a priest in 1981, he was the first Caucasian Shinto priest in history.  (There may have been non-Japanese citizens acting as priests in Hawaii or elsewhere, but as far as is known they were all racially Japanese.)   In the same year Paul founded the Japanese Dutch Shinzen Foundation in Amsterdam and gave instruction in spiritual exercises and performed ceremonies.  For the past thirty years he has been able to carve out a unique living as a Shinto priest in Europe.

The outside of the Holland Yamakage Shinto Saigu

In 1989 the Foundation acquired a location near the waterfront in Amsterdam where Paul was able to set up a shrine and dojo.  As well as giving regular lessons in spiritual practices such as meditation and purification, he is in demand from Japanese companies across Europe for ceremonies such as jichinsai (ground-breaking ceremonies).  He also acts for Japanese expatriates in such matters as weddings, 7-5-3 and officiates over a large New Year gathering each year at Hotel Okura in Amsterdam.

Green Shinto wishes to extend a big congratulations and wish the Amsterdam project all the best for the coming years!!

Paul before the altar in the large room that also doubles as a dojo

 

A painting of the tree that serves as 'goshintai' of the shrine

 

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