Tag: Kyoto (Page 1 of 2)

Cherry blossom in Kyoto

Cherry blossom has arrived in Kyoto!  The trees along the Kamogawa are out in glorious bloom, and people are flocking to the petals in Hirano Jinja, Kyoto’s special shrine for cherry blossom.  Today was a fine day for the emerging blossom, and the crowds were out in force.  Next weekend is sure to see a peak.

Hirano Jinja is one of thirteen Kyoto shrines in Cali and Dougill’s Shinto Shrines: A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan’s Ancient Religion (Univ of Hawaii, 2013).  From that we learn the shrine was founded in 782 in Nara, before being relocated to the new capital of Heiankyo (Kyoto) in 794.  The present buildings date from 1625, and with their unpainted wood and cypress-bark tiles they present an evocative rustic appearance.

The shrine has long been considered prestigious.  It may have been intended by Emperor Kanmu to guard the north-west of his new capital, and the Engishiki (967) mentions it as guardian of the imperial kitchen.  It was one of only 16 shrines to receive regular offerings from the emperor, and the hereditary priests were drawn from the powerful Urabe clan who specialised in tortoise-shell divination.  (The Urabe were one of the three ‘houses of Shinto’, who later divided to form the influential Yoshida lineage.)

The four Hirano kami are unusual.  According to the shrine, Imaki okami is a god of revitalisation; Kudo okami is a deity of the cooking pot; Furuaki okami is a deity of new beginnings; Hime no okami is a deity of fertility and discovery.  There are suggestions of links with Paekche (in ancient Korea) and that the last kami is in fact the ancestral spirit of Emperor Kanmu’s mother, who was descended from a king of Paekche.

The people who throng the shrine these days are little concerned with history, however.  Their concerns are with saké, picnic, conviviality and the brief glimpses of the moon appearing through clouds of pink blossom.  Within the compound are some 500 cherry trees, and the shrine was noted even in Heian times as a place to go for blossom viewing.  Now with lanterns dotting the grounds and a classical guitar strumming ‘Sakura’ in the Haiden, the shrine is a celebration of spring renewal and the touching brevity of life in this world.

Cherry blossom selfies are always popular

Even without cherry blossom the Honden (Sanctuary) has an attractive air with its gabled cypressbark roof, slender chigi crossbeams and goldplated details such as the imperial chrysanthemum

As evening falls, the stalls begin to do good business with people arriving after work for ‘hanami’ (blossom viewing parties)

For some, partying takes precedence over cherry blossom

For others the combination of moon and cherry blossom is enrapturing..

Paper lanterns painted by primary schoolchildren adorn the grounds

Festival of Ages

(courtesy mboogiedown)

Jidai Matsuri in Kyoto, Oct 22

Just a reminder that Oct 22 is a big day for Kyoto, with the Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Ages) taking place at noon. (The Kurama Hi Matsuri (Fire Festival) in the evening has been cancelled this year owing to damage from the typhoon to the Eiden railway.)

The Jidai Matsuri was created in Meiji times as a conscious attempt to revive the city’s fortunes in the wake of the move of the emperor and his associates to Tokyo. It’s given the full backing of the city in provision of its lavish costumes etc, and it has a strong imperial bent in keeping with Kyoto being the seat of the emperor for over 1000 years.

The procession begins with present-day officials, then works its way back through history to the days of Heian-kyo in the ninth century. An English language pamphlet is most useful for working out who the colourfully costumed characters represent. The effect is to see a moving tableau of Japanese history pass before one.

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(courtesy ishama.com)

The following is taken from the monthly publication, Kyoto Visitors Guide.

The Jidai Matsuri Festival (Oct. 22)
The rich costume pageant portraying Kyoto’s history

In 1895, Kyoto city held its first Jidai Matsuri Festival: a colorful, exotic costume parade dedicated to the Old Capital’s 1100 year history. The first festival also marked the opening of Heian Shrine, a 2/3 scale model of Kyoto’s original imperial palace. The shrine was specially built to enshrine the spirit of Emperor Kammu (reigning 781-806), who founded Kyoto in 794, and the city’s last reigning emperor and Emperor Komei (reigning 1847-1866). [Actually Komei’s spirit was installed later, during WW2.]

(courtesy Frantisek Stoud)

Today, after nearly 120 years, the Jidai Matsuri Festival continues to be a major focus of pride for Kyoto. For most visitors, the festival’s biggest attraction lies in the fantastic range of authentic historical costumes, covering twelve centuries of Kyoto’s history and social development, worn by the participants.

The festival begins at seven in the morning on the 22nd with the transferal, on sacred palanquins, a covered seat carried on poles on the shoulders of two or four people, of the imperial spirits from Heian Shrine to the Old Imperial Palace.

At around 12:00, the southern central axis of the Old Imperial Palace becomes a massive stage of the ages. The procession departs from here and slowly makes its way through the streets of Kyoto to Heian Shrine.

Jidai Matsuri (courtesy Kyoto Visitors Guide)

One of the historical characters, Shizuka Gozen, lover of Yoshitsune

One of the most appealing aspects of the festival is the authenticity of the costumes, which were made of material as close to the original as possible. Even the weaving and dyeing was done in the manner of the age they represent.

courtesy Nick Jones

courtesy Nick Jones

courtesy Nick Jones

courtesy Nick Jones

 

Atago July 31 pilgrimage

The excellent Core Kyoto series produced by NHK World (which broadcasts in English for overseas)  has produced a fine item about Kyoto’s Mt Atago and the pilgrimage for the fire deity which takes place on July 31.

The video is available on the NHK site till July 27. After that it may appear on Youtube, along with many of the other Core Kyoto videos. Click here to check them out as it’s really an excellent series for anyone at all interested in Japanese traditions.

Core Kyoto

Atago Sennichi Mairi: Pilgrimage to the Guardian against Fire

Broadcast on July 13, 2017

Paper talismans protecting against fire are common sights in Kyoto homes. People receive them at Atago Jinja, situated on top of a rugged mountain. The shrine holds Sennichi-mairi, or the 1,000-day pilgrimage, on the evening of July 31. Worshippers believe that if they make the grueling trek they have 1,000 days’ worth of protection against fire-related disasters. Discover the deep faith in Atago as more than 10,000 Kyotoites undertake the pilgrimage with gratitude for the gifts fire bestows.

Available until July 27, 2017 by clicking here.

Gokonomiya Shrine (Kyoto)

KomainuGokonomiya Shrine is not one of the better-known shrines of Kyoto, though in any other town it would certainly be a focus of attention.  It was first mentioned in 862 as having been restored – which means it dates from an earlier time.  It is said to have been built on the site of an imperial villa (Kyoto was founded in 794).  The imperial connection is reflected in its enshrined deities, the legendary Empress Jingu and Hachiman (also known as her son, Emperor Ojin).

Ritual for a first shrine visit for a baby (Hatsumiyamairi)

Ritual for the first shrine visit of a baby (Hatsu miyamairi)

According to the noticeboard at the shrine, spring water gushed out of the land in 863 with a particularly fresh aroma – hence the name of the shrine, which could be translated as Shrine of Fragrance.  The water acquired a reputation for its protective and curative properties, and it is still treasured by parishioners who bottle it for home consumption.

Though the spring dried up in Meiji times, it was restored in 1982 and in one of those typical Japanese listings, it’s now included in the top 100 natural water sources of Japan.  Unsurprisingly, the shrine has close relations with the nearby saké breweries which were established in Fushimi because of the purity of the underground water.  Kizakura and Gekkeikan are the best known.

The shrine’s entrance gate was relocated from Fushimi Castle in the early Edo period, but the pride of the shrine is its fine Momoyama colouring.  The Honden (Sanctuary) was built in 1605 and the Haiden (Worship Hall) in 1612.  The bright distinctive paintwork, with its colourful decorations, were renewed in 1990.

In modern times the shrine served as headquarters for the Satsuma Clan at the Battle of Toba-Fushimi (1868), though fortunately suffering no damage.  Other items of interest include an astonishingly vigorous ‘sotetsu’ tree, normally associated with tropical climes, a collection of rocks that once belonged to Hideyoshi’s Fushimi Castle, and a stone garden by Kobori Enshu.  There’s also a white horse statue standing ever ready for the kami to mount, and an Ema Hall with some fine old votive plaques donated by various groups in the past.

In the past the shrine was visited by the likes of Hideyoshi and the emperor.  It’s said many from the Tokugawa lineage used the protective spring water for their baby’s first bath.  People of Fushimi are said to be very attached to their shrine, and the grand festival which lasts nine days is of greater importance to locals than even the grand Gion Festival.

Gokonomiya may not be among the city’s most prestigious shrines, but it’s well worth a visit and there are quiet corners of the large shrine where one can sip the curative water at peace and perhaps write a haiku or two. as suggested by a stone monument commemorating Basho and Kyorai’s poetry here in 1694).  The first is by Basho  and the reply by Kyorai (tr. Blyth).

In the plum blossom scent
the sun pops up —
a mountain path

‘Yes, yes!’ I answered,
But someone still knocked
At the snow-mantled gate

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Acquiring a taste for sacred water at a young age

Acquiring a taste for sacred water at a young age

Tied up but ever ready – the Gokonomiya white horse

Tied up but ever ready – the Gokonomiya white horse

The magnificently fertile 'sotestsu' tree – testament to the potency of the water

The magnificently fertile ‘sotestsu’ tree – testament to the potency of the water

The ghostly outline on an ema donated to the shrine in the past

The ghostly outline on an ema donated to the shrine in the past

 

Umenomiya Shrine

The entrance gate to the shrine, with saké barrels.  The shrine has strong saké connections.

The entrance gate to the shrine, with saké barrels. The shrine has strong saké connections.

Kyoto has so many treasures it would take more than a single lifetime to get to see them all.  Though I’ve lived here for 20 years and written a book about the city, I’d not come across Umenomiya Taisha over in the west of the city, near Matsuoo Taisha.  After my visit yesterday, it’s hard to understand how it could have passed me by.

DSC_2078Umenomiya was once a high-ranking shrine with strong imperial connections. It boasts a large wooded pond area adjacent to the compound, where seasonal flora are on display throughout the first half of the year.  At the moment it’s full of iris, azalea and hydrangea.  Simply stunning!

The shrine was founded around 1300 years by the Tachibana family and relocated to its present location in the early Heian period.  It is dedicated to the mythical Oyamazumi no mikoto, father of the beautiful Princess Konohana no Sakuya, associated with Mt Fuji.  The story goes that he was so delighted with his daughter’s first child that he invented saké to celebrate the occasion, and the shrine is popular to this day with saké brewers.

DSC_2109According to tradition, Konohana no Sakuyahime gave birth to a god on the day following her marriage to Ninigi no mikoto (ancestor of the imperial line).  The speed with which she bore the baby led to her being patronised as a goddess of easy childbirth, as a result of which pregnant women come to pray for a safe delivery.  The association with childbirth is furthered by a stone to the right of the Honden known as Matage ishi (Matage rock), for it’s said that the Empress Danrin who had been childless was able to conceive after stepping over it.  She took some of the white sand in which the rock stands and spread it under her bed, which supposedly eased her in giving birth.

The garden area is home to the attractive Sakuya Pond, in which a thatched teahouse stands on a small island.  Water lilies, azalea, and irises throng the borders of the pond, and in the surrounding grounds is a dazzling diversity of hydrangea.  A short distance away, through a thicket of plum trees and bamboo, lies the Magatama Pond, so-named because of its shape.

DSC_2105Since the word for ‘giving birth’ is similar to plum (ume), there are about 500 plum trees at the shrine and pickled plums are on sale at the office. When the eighteenth-century Shinto scholar Motoori Norinaga donated a plum tree, he penned a short verse to go with it…

May a plum be planted,
nay, may a thousand
or eight thousand be planted
so that seen from afar
they appear as a sacred shrine fence

Here at Umenomiya is the very best of Shinto – ancestral devotion allied to a deep love of nature.  The gods are rooted in rock, and the human heart stirred by the exquisite beauty of a divinely appointed world.  Continuity stretches way back into a mythical past, and there’s a sense of gratitude for a world of wonder inherited from former times.  In such surrounds one feels blessed indeed.

Rocks representing Sarutahiko and Ame no Uzume

Rocks representing Sarutahiko and Ame no Uzume

Umenomiya’s seasonal round
plum blossom – mid Feb to mid March
camellia – Nov to April
daffodil – early April
double cherry blossom – mid-late April
Kirishima azalea – late April
Hirado azalea – early May
iris variety – late April to early May
iris variety – late May to early June
hydrangea – June

Third Sunday of April – cherry blossom festival with gagaku
May 3 – Shinko Festival, when mikoshi are carried around the vicinity
Last Sunday of August – some five hundred children participate in a sumo competition

The main compound with the Hyakudo mairi (One hundred times) markers in the foreground.  Devotees walk between the two rocks 100 times with a deep wish in their hearts, paying respects to the kami at the start and end at the Worship Hall.

The main compound with the Hyakudo mairi (One hundred times) markers in the foreground. Devotees walk between the two rocks 100 times with a deep wish in their hearts, paying respects to the kami at the start and end at the Worship Hall.

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Hata pt 5 (Early Buddhism)

Those of us who live in Kyoto are aware of two vital clans in the river basin’s early history – the Hata and the Kamo.  They played a decisive role in the religious development of the area, and their legacy remains evident nearly 2000 years later.

Though there were other clans, the Hata and Kamo achieved preeminence and the shrines they founded are amongst the city’s best-known.  The Hata are associated with Matsuoo Taisha and Fushimi Inari, the Kamo with the Kamigamo and Shimogamo Shrines.  At some point the two clans appear to have intermarried and formed an alliance.

It was with interest therefore that I came across an article about the early developments in Kyoto entitled ‘Activity of the Aya and Hata in the Domain of the Sacred’, by Bruno Lewin (tr. Richard Payne with Ellen Rozett, Pacific World, New Series, No. 10, 1994).

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Sacred rock at Matsuoo Taisha in Kyoto, which recalls the rock worship of Korea and the immigrant origins of the Hata clan who founded the shrine

The article starts by pointing out that immigrants lay behind the introduction and dissemination of Buddhism in Japan.  This was exemplified above all by the powerful Soga clan, who were opposed by conservative aristocrats backing vested interests in their tutelary kami.  It even led to war between them.

Amongst the incoming waves of immigrants the most powerful were the Hata, who may have arrived in two waves before and after the turn of the fourth century.  Their continental origins are unclear, and though they arrived in Japan from Korea it is thought they had previously entered the peninsula from China (there’s been much speculation about their Silk Road ties, leading to fanciful talk of middle eastern origins and Jewish or early Christian beliefs).

It is possible the Hata moved through Tsushima into Kyushu, then along the Inland Sea to a landing area in the Kobe/Osaka vicinity, before settling in Yamashiro (present-day Kyoto).  There these Buddhist-inclined immigrants were to have a surprisingly strong influence on the native kami tradition, as we see in the extract below.  The evidence suggests close connections of the ‘unique’ Japanese faith with its continental cousins.

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(Extracted from ‘Activity of the Aya and Hata in the Domain of the Sacred’

From amongst the old kikajin, the Hata acquired a special position in the domain of the sacred. It is remarkable that the Hata found entrance into the national kami cult, that they established Shinto shrines and were active as Shinto priests.

It is hardly probable that the Hata took on foreign religious forms, but rather that the Japanese cult of ancestors and nature deities may have corresponded with their own ancient religious form, which along with their ancient conceptions of the sacred had been influenced by many centuries of living with the Korean peoples.

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Osake Jinja in Kyoto may once have represented the Hata family shrine where its ancestral founder Hata no Kimi Sake was worshipped

In contrast to the other old kikajin, the Hata possessed larger ancestral shrines, which were probably located at all of their places of settlement. The Osake shrines in Yamashiro (Kadono district) and Harima (Akaho district) are well known, which were consecrated to the memory of Hata no Kimi Sake.  Also, a few Hata shrines should be noted which are mentioned in the Engi Shiki, but which no longer exist.

All of the kikajin (immigrants) have a close connection with the introduction and dissemination of Buddhism in Japan. In the same way that Buddhism was brought to Japan via China and Korea, they came into the country, and there are numerous monks to be found among the Korean and Chinese immigrants who had made Japan their adopted country since the sixth century. But also, the oldest strata of immigrants, who had already been residing in Japan for a century and a half prior to the introduction of Buddhism, show a certain affinity to the new teaching.

It is well known that beginning in the second half of the sixth century the powerful Soga clan brought their influence to bear in support of Buddhism, against the opposition of the conservative, high aristocracy. In close contact with the Soga stood the Kura families of the Aya and Hata, who-under the supervision of the Soga were to administer state finances. This may have contributed to the oldest foreign aristocrats, who, being under the influence of the Soga, accepted the Buddhist teachings early on.

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Hata no Kawakatsu, close advisor to Shotoku Taishi

The proof is found in some temple foundations which go back to the activity of the Kochi-no-Aya no Obito, the descendants of Wani, and of the Hata no Miyatsuko, the descendants of Yuzuki.  [They founded] the Koryuji in Yamashiro. According to the Nihongi this temple was established in the year 603.’ In the Suiko-ki it is reported:

“The crown prince (Shotoku-taishi) spoke to all the dignitaries: “I have a statue of the Buddha who is worthy of worship. Who would like to receive this statue and devotedly venerate it?” – Then Hata no Miyatsuko Kawakatsu stepped forward and said: “I would like to venerate it.” Thus he received the Buddha statue and constructed the Hachiokadera for it.”

Hachiokadera is the original name of this temple, named for the settlement beside Uzumasa, the site of the main family. It was henceforth the house temple of the Hata, therefore it was also known as the Hata-no-kimi-dera. It is the oldest Buddhist temple in the district of today’s Kyoto.

In the year 818 the temple burned down for the first time. In the reports transmitted by the Nihon-kiryaku it is called Uzumasa-no-Kimi-dera, a sign that its ties with the name of the Hata lasted after its founding in Heian-kyo. Besides, on the temple grounds there is an Uzumasaden, in which Hata no Kawakatsu is venerated as the temple’s founder.

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For earlier articles on the Hata, see Part One (Overview), or Part Two on Hata Kawakatsu, or Part Three on the Silkworm Shrine (Kaiko no Yashiro), or Part Four on the Triangular Torii.

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Koryu-ji, once known as Hata-dera, is Kyoto’s earliest Buddhist temple and was founded by the powerful Hata clan

For earlier parts in this series on the Hata clan, please check out the following links:
Part 1: an overview of the Hata clan
Part 2: Hata no Kawakatsu
Part 3 on the silkworn shrine
Part 4 on the triangular torii

Hata Part 1: Overview

Fushimi Inari is the most famous place associated with the influential Hata clan

Fushimi Inari is the most famous of all the places associated with the immigrant Hata clan.  Intriguingly the northeast of China from where the Hata might have originated had a fox clan in ancient times.

As part of Golden Week activities this year, I made a tour of places in Kyoto associated with the influential Hata Clan. Anyone who has lived in the city will have come across the name at some stage, as the clan were instrumental in the building of Heian-kyo in 794. Prior to that, they were responsible for the founding of Koryu-ji temple, Matsuo Taisha and Fushimi Inari amongst others.

Once a virtual clan shrine for the Hata, Osake Jinja has seen better days but has managed to survive into the present.

Once a clan shrine for the Hata, Osake Jinja has seen better days but has managed to survive into the present.

Much about the Hata is shrouded in doubt because there are no reliable sources. It has given them an air of mystery, with some claiming they were Nestorian Christians and others saying they were descended from China’s Qin Emperors.  There’s even a theory they were a lost tribe of Israel.  The truth is probably less fanciful, but no less intriguing because of the many clues that remain.

The Hata came to Japan from Korea, though it’s believed they originated in China (their name is written with the same Chinese character as the Qin Emperors of old).  They arrived in Japan in considerable number, and brought with them advanced techniques in silk-weaving, saké making, stringed instruments, agricultural methods, and large-scale landscaping. This has led some to suppose they had Silk Road connections, by means of which they picked up the leading knowledge of their time.

There are many places throughout Japan associated with the Hata, particularly along the migration route from Korea into northern Kyushu, along the Inland Sea to the Kobe area and then inland to the Kyoto basin.  The place most closely connected with them though is the Uzumasa area of Kyoto (Uzumasa was a name bestowed on the clan leader by the emperor). There are a number of places with Hata origins, one of which is the small Osake Jinja, effectively a Hata clan shrine.  Its noticeboard gives an overview of the clan’s developments (though this is quite different from the Wikipedia version).

In 356  (other reports place it much earlier) a Hata representative came to Japan to help avoid war with Paekche, one of the Korean kingdoms.  This was followed by an influx of 18,670 people at the time of Emperor Ojin.  They brought gifts of gold, silver and silk etc leading the Japanese authorities to look on them kindly.

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Konoshima Jinja, built by the Hata, is more commonly known as Kaiko no Yashiro, the Silkworm Shrine, because one of its subshrines is dedicated to the deity.

In 471 Emperor Yūryaku bestowed the family name of Uzumasa on Hata Sake no kimi (or Hata Sakekimi) for his contribution to the spread of sericulture.  The area of the Kyoto basin in which the clan came to settle was accordingly named Uzumasa (uzumoreru implies ‘being covered or buried in treasure’).

There may have been a clan shrine called Uzumasa Jinja, but at some stage this was destroyed and merged into Osake Jinja (named for Sakekimi), which has survived into the present.  No doubt it was once a flourishing place, but now it is confined to a small roadside space housing a torii and small token shrine.

More impressive is another Hata shrine in the area, known as Konoshima Jinja (or Kaiko no Yashiro, the Silkworm Shrine).  It’s thought that this was built around 603 as a protective shrine for the nearby Koryu-ji temple, put up by Hata strongman, Kawakatsu.  The shrine is notable for a peculiar triangular torii, which stands near the Worship Hall, giving rise to fanciful theories about Christian connections (three sides representing the Trinity!).  More about this in a later post.

In 701 Hata Imikitori founded Matsuo Taisha.  He was out hunting one day when he saw a huge tortoise.  In Chinese folk custom tortoises are a symbol of good luck and longevity. Sure enough, the turtle revealed a spring of fresh and invigorating water coming down from Mt Matsuo.  As a result the shrine today is full of tortoise statues and noted for its saké connections (the water from its spring is used for brewing). (See here for more about about Matsuo Taisha.)

A turtle at Matsuo Taisha spouting water into the temizuya (water basin)

A turtle at Matsuo Taisha spouting water into the temizuya (water basin)

In 713 Hata Irogu was doing archery practice in the Fushimi area when his ricecake target turned into a white bird and flew up Fushimi Hill to reveal a field of rice.  (See Fushimi Inari.)  Later when Heian-kyo was built, Fushimi Inari became the protective shrine for the new capital’s Toji Temple.

In 794 the Hata clan played a decisive part in Emperor Kammu’s decision to move the capital from the cursed location at Nagaoka-kyo.  The clan not only possessed much of the land in the Kyoto basin and were able to help fund the cost of relocation, but they were skilled too at handling the large-scale engineering involved, such as redirecting rivers and building earthworks.

(Hata clan descendants remain throughout Japan today, and there is an annual get-together for members.  The Matsuo Shrine in particular is said to retain ties to the clan.)

The subshrine at Fushimi Inari dedicated to the Hata clan ancestral spirits

The subshrine at Fushimi Inari dedicated to Hata clan ancestral spirits

 

The sacred rock (iwakura) representing Hata no Irobu, founder of Fushimi Inari

The sacred rock (iwakura) for the spirit of Hata no Irobu, founder of Fushimi Inari

 

For Part Two of this series, click on this link for Hata Part 2: Kawakatsu.

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