Author: John D. (Page 184 of 202)

Experiencing shugendo (mountain asceticism)

There’s a short article on shugendo in this month’s Kansai Scene, which can be read online here.  It’s of particular interest because it describes an opportunity for foreigners to experience this Shinto-Buddhist blend of mountain asceticism for themselves.

Shugendo dates back some 1300 years, and was founded by the legendary seventh-century En no Gyoja (En the Ascetic). Practitioners, popularly known as yamabushi (literally, those who lie in the mountains), head into the hills to scale cliffs, fast, sleep in caves, stand under icy mountain streams, recite sutras and perform other rituals.

The rigorous activities are designed to heighten awareness and further spiritual development, so that practitioners come down from the mountain enhanced by the experience and able to help their community.  The idea is that by getting ‘high’ one gets closer to the spirit world.  It’s also a form of rebirth, for after leaving the everyday world the ego is broken down and forced to ‘die’, leading the way to a new and better self.

Two foreigners here seen doing cold water austerity on Mt Inunaki (Kansai Scene Dec. 2011 edition)

 

As a mountain lover, I’ve always found shugendo the most appealing of spiritual exercises – except for the bit where you get dangled over the edge of a cliff !  In her article, however, Bonnie Carpenter treats it in remarkably matter of fact manner.

At the top, Yoshida-san asked for participants for a more severe part of the training. Strapping on a thick white braided rope that encircled both shoulders, a novice prostrated himself flat on a rocky precipice overlooking the gorge, leaning as far out as he could possibly go. The assistant priest held up the novice’s back legs while the main priest holding the rope demanded, “Have you been good to your father and mother? Have you been working hard?” The novice responded with a nervous “Yes!” as he dangled precariously over the steep hills below. The intent was to put the supplicant under extreme physical and mental conditions, thus insuring a more honest response.

An intimidating cave opening, offering the possibility of returning to the womb and being reborn

On this occasion it seems the dangling over the cliff is voluntary. For Japanese who practise shugendo I believe it’s not. When I joined an outing myself, I made sure that there were no cliffs to be negotiated but still found myself panicking nonetheless at the prospect of entering a cave through a frighteningly narrow crack.  As a claustrophobic, even enlightenment was not enticing enough for me to enter, and I had to join in the chanting of the Heart Sutra from outside the cave!

Shugendo was banned by the Meiji government as superstitious, but was revived after WW2 and made a strong come-back. Nonetheless it’s no longer the force it once was and opportunities to join are not easy to come by.  Some of the groups used to be very secretive, and women were not allowed on several of the sacred mountains.  Only in recent years has the religion become more open, and this opportunity advertised by the Kansai Scene is a rare opportunity for foreigners in Japan to be able to experience the tradition.  I heartily recommend it.

  • To try Shugendo, contact Inunaki-san Shipporyuji Temple at 072-459-7101/7043 or online in Japanese at the URL below. Reservations are required.
  • The site offers training every third Sunday from March through November for groups of 20 or more for ¥2,000 per person. Smaller groups can be accommodated by consulting with the temple.
  • Japanese ability is necessary, though you can bring your own translator.
  • www.inunakisan.com
  • www.kankou-izumisano.jp

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For full details about shugendo, see Mark Schumacher’s online dictionary here.  There’s also a useful site by a French practitioner who has established a base in Europe…  http://www.shugendo.fr/en   For ice-bathing misogi (cold water austerity) in Austria, see this youtube video. For an excellent NHK video introducing Shugendo at Dewa Sanzan, see https://vimeo.com/196561540

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Parade of yamabushi playing conch-horns

 

When not in the mountains, shugendo practitioners can be seen at temples (Shingon or Tendai) to which they are attached and where they often feature in fire festivals.

“Sickening Age-uma shinji”

The animal welfare society to which I belong (JAWS) has an article in its latest newsletter which contains details of a shocking Shinto event involving cruelty to horses. It calls into question the whole ethos of Shinto as a religion that purports to care about nature.

The horse as sacred mount

The annual rite known as Ageuma shinji takes place in Mie Prefecture at the Inabe and Tado shrines, in April and May respectively.  As such it stands alongside other horse events at Shinto shrines, such as the more well-known Yabusame (video) and Kasagake (article). Put on for the entertainment of the kami, the rituals involve an element of divination.  In this case it has to do with the size of the harvest.

Horses have a special place in Shinto as mounts of the kami, able to move between this world and that of the spirit, as detailed in a previous blog entry.

At the Tado and Inabe Shrines however horses are forced up steep slopes and made to jump over a wall.  If they slide back or refuse, they are pushed, pulled and coerced against their will. The idea is that if the horse succeeds, there will be an abundant harvest.

The conditions are such that they would be banned at any international event. According to the JAWS representative, Dr. Koichi Aoki, it is a shocking spectacle, cheered on by jubilant onlookers.

In recent years the event has been monitored by animal rights observers.  In 2008 a horse crashed into the wall and broke its nasal bone at the Inabe shrine.  At the Tado shrine a terrified horse failed to surmount the wall and ran in terror through the crowd, seriously injuring five people.

In 2009 a horse broke its foreleg at Inabe Shrine, and at Tado shrine video evidence was collected of men using violence on a horse before the event to stimulate it to greater effort.

In 2010 a horse fell before the slope and died after breaking a vertebra in its neck. The same year the Kuwana police, under pressure, launched an investigation into animal cruelty. Papers were sent to the public prosecutor’s office and charges followed.

Green Shinto has no hesitation in condemning cruelty to animals as an utter disgrace. A religion that has cultivated horses as messengers of the kami is here guilty of preserving a tradition that endangers horses. The wall-jumping is in defiance of international standards, contradicts all attempts to turn Shinto into a universal religion concerned with the protection of nature, and makes a complete mockery of the notion of living in harmony with our fellow creatures.  It is, quite simply, sickening!

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Information for this entry is taken from the JAWS newsletter no. 78 (Autumn, 2011). The London-based charity can be contacted at jawsuk@jawsuk.org.uk, or see the website http://www.jawsuk.org.uk/

A Japanese video of the event can be seen here together with further details, where it is reported that five people were arrested and face animal cruelty charges.  In defense of the rite, traditionalists maintain that the cruelty is justified on the absurd grounds that because it’s been done for centuries it is somehow okay!

Horses at the Kasagake event at Kamigamo Jinja, where the animals are treated with the respect they deserve

Sakaki

The sakaki branch is common in Shintō ceremonies.  It’s used on altars, and it’s used as an offering to the kami. It’s used too as a vehicle into which the kami descends, and as a wand for purification. Performers hold sprigs in ritual dance, and it’s sometimes affixed to buildings or torii to signify the sacred quality. What is it exactly, and why should it be so sacred?

Sakaki pinned to a torii at Ise

Sakaki’s Latin name is Cleyera japonica, a member of the tea family oddly enough, though it has little to do with tea. I’ve never tried brewing it, but something tells me it wouldn’t taste very good!

Plants with point-tipped leaves, such as pines and thorns, were once believed to be the landing point for spirits, and this was no doubt how the association with the sakaki arose.  Its evergreen nature, like the Christmas fir tree, must have appealed to ancients as a symbol of nature’s vitality and kami immortality.

Officially the reason for sakaki’s sacred nature is because of its role in mythology.  When Amaterasu, the sun goddess, hid in the Rock Cave, a tree was decorated with jewels, swords and mirror as part of the grand festival to lure her out.  It worked, and ever since the event has acted as a template for Shinto ceremonies and festivals.

There are two linguistic theories about the origin of the name.  One derives from the tree’s evergreen nature, such that it is always thriving (sakaeru).  Another sees it as originating as a ‘border tree’ (sakai), used to mark off sacred ground.  The two theories are not mutually exclusive of course, since the reason for choosing the tree as a marker could be because it was always thriving – even in winter.  This would place it in the same category as the evergreen trees of pagan worship in Europe.

All hail the sakaki – a symbol of nature’s ability to thrive!  Even now, as we approach the midwinter solstice, it stands proud and green, a reminder of the new growth to come…  with temperatures plunging and days shortening, it may be hard to believe, but one fine day nature will renew itself and the world will be green once again.

Sakaki offering in a plastic bottle to mark a sacred statue

 

Sakaki decorating a mikoshi at a festival

Nonomiya Shrine (Kyoto)

Queueing up at dusk at Nonomiya Shrine

Those of us who live in Kyoto are spoilt.  As soon as the glorious autumn colour light-ups finish, we get the Hanatouro light-up in Arashiyama.  The area was once a pleasure-ground for the Heian aristocracy, when boats plied languidly across the river carrying performers of dance and music for nobles who drank saké, composed poems and dangled their long sleeves in the cooling water.

Last night I took a stroll around the area at dusk, to admire the expensive light effects.  It happened to coincide with the full moon lunar eclipse, when the best efforts of mankind were dwarfed by the celestial lightshow on high as the moon was turned golden by the eerie shadowing and unshadowing.  You can’t compete with magic like that!

Nonetheless Nonomiya and its approaches had a magic of their own, standing out in clear relief against the looming darkness.  The small shrine dates back to the seventh century and is noted for its ancient style of torii, with bare logs covered in bark.  In the grounds you can find a moss garden and a shrine to a deity of easy delivery (Shirafuku Inari).

Lovers of the Heian era, like myself, have a special place in their hearts for the shrine, for Lady Rokujo came here with her daughter in the tenth chapter of The Tale of Genji.  The daughter had been appointed as the Ise virgin (Saigu), and the custom was for the young princess to stay for a year at the shrine to purify herself.  It was here, at this sacred spot, that Genji came to take his leave of Lady Rokujo whose jealousy had caused the death of his wife. It’s an illicit meeting in a place of purification, and highly charged.

Genji offers Rokujo a sprig of sakaki, pushing it through the fencing in provocative manner.  ‘With heart unchanging as this evergreen,/This sacred tree, I enter the sacred gate,’ he says.  In this way Murasaki Shikibu skilfully turns Shinto’s holy symbol into a tool of seduction.

Bamboo light-up around Nonomiya: even an iphone was alive to its beauty

 

The chief association of Nonomiya, however, is with sadness and parting, for the young princesses who came here for purification had to take leave of their family when departing for Ise, never to meet again. (The system was abolished in the fourteenth century.)  The custom was for the father to give her a comb, a symbolic token of farewell, then an imperial procession would accompany her on the five-day journey.  A festival every year recreates the scene, leading from the shrine down to the famous Togetsukyo Bridge where the princess would have crossed over to her new life.

Okochi Sanso in daylight: imagine the magic by night

For the Hanatouro event, the path to Nonomiya through a bamboo grove is beautifully illuminated, and from the shrine one can make one’s way up to Okochi Sanso (the villa of the actor Okochi Denjiro) where for the price of Y700 you can enter the most exquisite fairyland.

The Hanatouro light-up continues till Dec 18, from 5.00 to 8.30 each day. Highly recommended for anyone in the Kyoto area, though try to make it a week day as the weekends get very crowded. There’s five km of walkway with open air lanterns, student performances, spectacular flower arrangements, five temples, the Rakushisha hut where Basho stayed, and bamboo bliss with Nonomiya too. Prayers for success in exams or a good love connection are particularly favoured.  Head for the shrine this week, and you too may feel illuminated!

The six shrines of Ou

Ou, what a relief

Susanoo slaying the eight-headed serpent

Ancient Izumo is a land of legends, associated with Susanoo and the slaying of the eight-headed monster (Yamata no Orochi).  it’s also said to be the burial place of the mythological Izanami, who together with her spouse-brother Izanagi, created Japan. She was supposedly buried on Mt Hiba (near modern day Yasugi city), and when out of grief Izanagi visited her dead body, he was chased out by the Japanese equivalent of the Furies. Izanami is so closely associated with the area, that some say the name of Izumo is a nod in her direction.

Within the ancient province of Izumo lay the district of Ou, in which the city of Matsue now stands. Its peculiar name supposedly derives from the Land-Pulling Myth, in which a kami enlarged the province by pulling over some extra pieces of land from Korea.  He marked the end of his exertions by striking a rod into the ground and letting out a long ‘Ou’ in relief.

In medieval times six of the area’s most prestigious shrines were formed into a pilgrimage group called the Ou Rokusha (Six shrines of Ou).  Walking round the six shrines was popular in the Edo period for those looking to earn spiritual merit while taking a break from their usual routine.  I’m not sure how long it took the hearty souls, but in a rented car it took me a little over half a day.  Since it’s said the merit you earn is proportionate to the effort put in, i doubt I earned very much!

Entrance to Rokusho Shrine

 

The Ou Rokusha Mairi
Here are the six shrines.  The first two are close together and definitely recommended.  They’re not far from Matsue, one of Japan’s most attractive cities, and perfect for a short outing.  The two shrines are both unique and charming in their own way.

1) Yaegaki Jinja (a Susanoo shrine).  It’s said to stand on the wedding home of Susanoo and his bride, Princess Kushinada.  It’s notable for its fertility symbols and an ancient pond which Kushinada used as a mirror and which is now used for fortune telling.  For a full report, click here.

2) Kumaso Jinja (an Izanami shrine).  The shrine is most notable for its striking architecture, which represents the oldest known example of the Izumo style.  It’s a twenty-minute walk from Yaegaki and stands in a clearing up a steep step of stairs.  The most atmospheric of shrines. it is in many ways the perfect example of how Shinto consecrates the spirit of place.

An unusual feature in the Kumaso precincts marks an opening in the hillside which once sheltered people taking refuge from persecution

Hearn was here! The sole noticeboard at the Kumaso Shrine notes his visit in 1891.

 

Kumaso Jinja's distinctive architecture leading up to the honden main sanctuary where the kami resides

 

3) Rokusho Jinja (dedicated to six different kami, including the fractious Amaterasu-Susanoo siblings) Now a modest shrine in a small village, Rokusho once stood at the heart of the Izumo administrative machine.  Behind the shrine is a field showing the site of huge tax-collecting buildings dating from the eighth century.

Steps leading to Manai Jinja

 

4) Manai Jinja (an Izanagi shrine).  An unattended shrine up steep steps, which is associated with a waterfall on the hill behind.  I had the feeling there was more to this shrine than meets the eye, for it is mentioned in the Izumo fudoki (chronicles written c. 733), but as yet I’ve been unable to find out much about it.

5) Kumano Taisha (a Susanoo shrine).  The biggest of the six shrines, with tourist buses lined up and a tourist hotel set by the entrance.  It was once not only the ichinomiya (top shrine) of Izumo, but is said to have been even more popular than the famed Izumo Taisha.  It has claims to be the site of the wedding between Susanoo and Princess Kushinada.  It’s also said to be the shrine were fire was first made for the gods, significant since Izanami was burnt to death while giving birth to the fire deity.  But why on earth is it called Kumano Taisha, since the area of Kumano lies on the other side of the country altogether?

Kumano Taisha with its characteristic Izumo-style rice rope

I asked one of the priests about the name, and he told me that it used to be assumed that people from Kumano had brought their faith with them and set up shrine here.  But recently there’s a new theory that people from Izumo had gone to Kumano, and then come back and set up a shrine in honour of the region. Presumably the ancient kingdoms of Izumo and Kumano were allied in ancient times, both of them overcome eventually by the emerging Yamato state.  First Emperor Jimmu made his legendary march across the Kii peninsula, defeating the Kumano tribes he met on the way.  Later Yamato was successful in pressuring the Izumo king into submitting.

6) Iya Jinja (an Izanami shrine).  Last of the six shrines I visited, appropriately, was the one known as Shrine of the Dead. it lies not far from a boulder with which Izanagi blocked up the entrance to the Land of Yomi where the putrefying Izanami lay buried.  The boulder looks curiously ineffective, which is no doubt why hungry spirits continue to filter into this world.

The boulder with which Izanagi blocked up the entrance to Yomi and Izanami's tomb

 

There’s an eerie atmosphere at Iya Shrine, furthered by a reticent priest who appeared intent on not shedding any light on the shrine traditions.  The shrine is mentioned in the Nihon shoki of 720 and I’d heard that the unusual banners to one side might represent something to do with Susanoo’s dragon. ‘Tabun,’ was all I could get out of the priest.  Maybe he had a point: he who knows does not speak; he who speaks does not know, said the ancient sage.  Mystery lies at the core of Shinto, and a sense of awe, reverence and wonder.  Enough said!

 

The Iya Shrine sanctuary roof, showing chigi upright diagonals and katsuogi crossposts

 

The altar at Iya Jinja: simplicity itself

 

 

 

 

 

 

The peculiar rice rope structures in the grounds of Iya Shrine, representing the yamata no orochi serpent - perhaps

 

Iya Jinja worship hall with sanctuary behind, masked by trees

Kuzuryu Shrine (Dragon kami)

Offerings to the serpent-dragon at the Kuzuryu Shingu altar

 

One of the most attractive areas in Japan is around Hakone and Lake Ashi. It’s a popular resort in summer, but pleasant out of season when the crowds have gone.  Like many lakes in the region, it has shrines whose precincts lead down to the shore.  One such is Kuzuryu Jinja, founded by a Buddhist priest.

The mythology of dragons is complex, since they embody so many yin-yang elements and can move freely in air and water. They were not only agents of heaven, but associated with sea-snakes (snakes were seen positively as symbols of rebirth due to casting off their skin).  In Japan dragons and serpents are often conflated, as in the picture above.

Kuzuryu Shingu at Hakone Jinja

Legend relates that a nine-headed dragon was terrifying people who lived around Lake Ashi.  A priest named Mangen built a stone stupa in the lake and the dragon was transformed into the deity Ryujin (Dragon kami).  In syncretic fashion the buddhist priest had prayed for aid to the kami at Hakone Jinja, and in gratitude he built his own shrine.  It became a centre for Ryujin faith as well as for mountain asceticism (shugendo).

Ryujin faith is not only associated with rain prayers and a good catch for fishermen, but also with agriculture.  The Encyclopedia of Shinto says that, ‘The dragon kami s connected with agriculture because of its characteristic as a water kami. Prayers for rain were performed at rivers, swamps, ponds, and deep pools which were regarded as the abodes of the ryūjin. Agricultural rituals, such as prayers for rain and rope pulls, were carried out using a straw rope shaped like a serpent-like dragon.’

At Kuzuryu there’s a ceremony on the 13th of each month to commemorate the quelling of the dragon, and on June 13 there’s an annual festival when scenes are reenacted.  Because the original Kuzuryu was relatively difficult to access – it lies 30 minutes walk through the woods – a subshrine was added in recent times to Hakone Jinja which is known, appropriately enough, as Kuzuryu Shingu (Kuzuryu New Shrine).

The water’s edge is often marked by protective shrines in Japan, and tales of serpents and dragons are common.  Here at Lake Ashi is one of the most attractive examples, but unlike Loch Ness there’s no mystery to the monster beneath the placid waters.  Why not take a visit and see if you can spot Ryujin too?

Torii of Kuzuryu Shrine, below

Kuzuryu Shingu altar, at Hakone Jinja

 

The delightfully secluded Kuzuryu Shrine set in the woods

 

EMA (‘Horse picture’ votive tablets)

White horses

What is it with white horses?  Near my home town of Oxford, there’s one that was scoured into the chalk hill some 2000 years ago.  Since ancient times commanders, kings and emperors have liked to ride white horses.  And here in Japan white horses were once offered to shrines as gifts for the kami.

Horses were special because they were restricted to the élite.  For ordinary people horseriders were looked up to – literally.  There was something godlike about them, for they were insulated from contact with the earth unlike mere mortals.

It was the horseriding élite who after death were honoured as tutelary kami, and the horse was seen as a sacred mount which transported them from one realm to the other.  On the continent it had been the custom to sacrifice horses and cows to the gods.  Whether this was transmitted to Japan is disputed, but the practice that evolved in Japan was to offer horses as gifts.  “Horses were viewed as agents for bearing the kami since ancient times,” says the Kokugakuin encyclopedia, “and it was customary to present a horse to the kami as an expression of gratitude when making a vow or entreaty at a shrine.”

But why white?  White is the colour of purity, and as such treasured by Shinto.  Priests wear white robes; the paper shide to mark sacred space are white; the gohei into which kami descend are white.

White is also a colour of distinction, and in East Asian shamanism anything in nature that is distinctive may be a sign of divine possession.  It’s why trees and rocks and mountains of distinctive shape are signalled out as sacred.  White and albino animals too.

Substitutes

At some point in history it became prohibitively expensive to keep presenting white horses to shrines, and someone had the bright idea of presenting a clay model instead.  An unreal horse for an unearthly spirit.

The practice caught on, and over time spread to the offering of statues and two-dimensional representations on large wooden boards.  The idea may have originated from depictions of the animals in the Chinese zodiac, introduced from the continent.  Already by the Nara period wooden plaques with horse pictures were being donated to shrines.  As sacred art, the paintings were done by leading artists (in a later age Hokusai was to paint them).

By the Muromachi period, subjects other than horses were being depicted, though the practice was still restricted to the élite.  The large plaques were exhibited in a special hall (emado).  It was only in Edo times that small wooden votive plaques became widespread, following the custom of ordinary folk to hang up religious emblems.  People wrote their names on the back, sometimes adding wishes of their own.

Originally the wooden tablets were used as prayers against disease and for good crops, but gradually the scope widened.  They were handpainted by local people, who created their own designs.  Though the practice flourished in Meiji times, there came a downturn by the mid-twentieth century as modernisation swept aside the old ways.

Postwar developments

After WW2 one particular artist had the bright idea of adapting silk screen technology and was able to mass-produce ema.  The idea caught on, and with the reduction in price came a revival of popularity. Now you cannot fail to find them in abundance at any large shrine.  Typically they cost from Y600–Y1000 each.

From white horses, the subject matter spread to myth and local folklore, even sometimes to altogether profane matters.  Shrines came up with their own original creations, as in the example from Fushimi Inari on the left where you fill in the fox’s face yourself.

It’s said that the shrines get a 100% mark-up on the ema they sell, and that one brand can sell up to 100,000 a year.  Nonetheless some priests are sceptical of whether it constitutes real religious activity, claiming it is more akin to making wishes at a wishing-well.

For some years I’ve been collecting ema, and I must have acquired nigh on two hundred by now.  Amongst the collection is one with the face of Thomas Edison, the American inventor.  Was he a Shintoist?  No, but the bamboo he chose for his lightbulb happened to come from near Kyoto because it was of a particularly tough strand suitable for use as a filament.  The American inventor now finds himself immortalised in the ema of Iwashimizu Hachiman-gu.  From a living white horse, offerings to the kami have transmogrified into pictures of a dead white male!

White horse at Kamigamo Jinja, one of the few shrines still to keep a live horse

Horse statue at Izumo Taisha, almost as good as the real thing

Here the mount for the kami is itself getting a ride!

White fox ema at Fushimi with personalised faces

Many ema show animals of the Chinese zodiac year

Some ema have an original shape

 

Some ema tell of the shrine folklore (this depicts the samurai hero Musashi)

Some ema are simply cute, in the manner of Hello Kitty

 

 

 

Information for the above article draws on Ian Reader ‘Letters to the Gods: The Form and Meaning of Ema’ in the Japanese Journal of Religious Studies 1991 (vol.18/1)

 

Ema can be syncretic and are sold at temples too. This one depicts the Buddhist hell.

Some ema are puzzling: the priest at this shrine told me there was no connection with Daruma at all.

Some ema are magical (the pentagram here was the symbol of Onmyodo Wizard, Abe no Seimei)

Some ema have manga-style prayers by a new generation of shrine-goers.

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