Author: John D. (Page 185 of 202)

Reality and Illusion of Shinto (book review)

Shinto no kyozo to jitsuzo  by Inoue Hiroshi   Kodansha, 2011

Here’s a book by a university professor (Osaka Kogyo University, also professor emeritus at Shimane Johou Kagakabu), whose promotion blurb screams ‘Shinto was invented three times!’

Those familiar with recent writings on Shinto will not be surprised by the claim. Personally speaking, I would have ascribed the three times to the late seventh century and the formation of imperial mythology in the Kojiki; the attempt to overthrow Buddhist domination by Yoshida Shinto in the fifteenth century; and the Meiji-era championing of Shinto under the new emperor system after 1868.

According to Inoue Hiroshi, only two of my three guesses would be correct.  It’s the first with which he disagrees.  What we understand as ‘Shinto’, the professor claims, did not begin until around the end of the eleventh and beginning of the twelfth centuries.  It was then that it became an organised religion.  Before that it was a loose amalgam of diverse practices derived from Taoism, with little in common and no doctrine.

The creation of ‘Shinto’

For Inoue, systemisation is the key to an understanding of what constitutes a religion.  Only with a coherent organisation and ideology, he maintains, can we speak of a religion in the proper sense.  In this regard he identifies three developments as key to his theory:

1) An ideology of exoteric-esoteric Buddhism that subsumed Shinto. (The theory, known as kenmitsu taisei, was first put forward by Kuroda Toshio.)

2) Self-identity as ‘a land of kami’ (shinkoku shisou), which came with rising national consciousness.

3) Shrine ranking.  A system of 22 Shrines with imperial patronage was set up in mid-Heian times.  In late Heian times came the appointment of leading shrines in each province (ichinomiya), which effectively acted as agents of state.

Official Shinto and folk Shinto

Following the above changes, there opened up two kinds of ‘Shinto’.  One was the official face, with its imperial myths and centralised practice.  The other was what might be called folk Shinto, carried on by ordinary people in traditional manner, with diverse beliefs and local customs.  Official Shinto became a way of controlling people, in the way of organised religion.  Folk Shinto was rooted in the lives of the people.

A patriotic religion, or a nature religion? Poster at Suwa Taisha saying 'It's good that I am Japanese.'

Looking at the current state of affairs, Inoue Hiroshi puts forward two recommendations.  One is for Shinto to see itself as one of many religions, and not to assert its non-religious ‘we are special’ character.  The other is to emphasise the connection with animism and nature.

In terms of a more open and green direction for Shinto, the book is very much to be welcomed.  Personally, I’m still inclined to see some kind of ‘Shinto’ emerging around the end of the seventh century, when a conscious attempt was made to systematise the myths and establish divine descent for the Yamato emperor.  I’d also add a note to the effect that Shinto should not just see itself as a religion, but as an East Asian religion in particular.  This would help counteract the nationalist tendency to think of Shinto as endowing Japan with a specially divine nature.

Verdict: Written in Japanese for Japanese, the book is an important reminder that there are elements within Shinto working towards greater openness and against the idea that Shinto has existed since time immemorial.

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With thanks to Kyoko Kitazume for her assistance

Nagano’s ‘dosojin’

Nagano’s an interesting place.  It’s the fourth largest prefecture, with a population of just over two million. It’s landlocked and has the furthest point from the sea in Japan.  And it’s bordered by more prefectures than anywhere else in the country (eight in all).

The two major cities are Nagano City and Matsumoto.  Both have their attractions.  Nagano has the wonderful temple of Zenkoji with its unique history and atmosphere.  Matsumoto, as I discovered last weekend, has a delightful castle whose foundation dates back to the sixteenth century.

What marks Nagano out geographically is its mountains and lakes.  Nine of Japan’s highest twelve mountains are in the prefecture, and until recent times the high ranges kept the prefecture relatively isolated.  Now hordes of tourists descend on its lakes to take their summer holidays.  Luckily they all descend at the same time, leaving the resorts empty out of season.

This year I’ve got to know three of the lakes pretty well.  Nojiriko, Suwako, and Shirakabako.  The latter is named after the silver birch, the prefectural tree.  Like many of the region’s lakes, it’s sanctified by a shrine with a torii at the waterside as if opening up into a different dimension (water has spiritual associations, and kami often arrive that way).  In this case a Kashiwara branch shrine stands on a small promontory…

Shirakabako, quiet and still snowless in the autumn mist

Like many lakes in the north, there's a torii at the junction of two different realms

 

Wayside shrines and dosojin

If you keep your eyes open, you’ll see evidence of traditional beliefs that have long died out in the cities and more Westernised parts of the country.  Just outside Suwa Taisha’s Harumiya, for instance, I came across a small family shrine placed before a tree.  It stood open to the elements, with the weathered gohei  (vehicle for the kami) augmented by a little Inari fox.

Another aspect of the region are the dosojin (stone markers).  They were often placed at village boundaries, to act as tutelary spirits and ward off evil.  Sometimes they simply bear inscriptions, but often they show human figures and sometimes a pair coupling.  The idea is that the fertility they represent will foster vitality sufficient to overcome the negative forces of pollution and disease.

 

These two pictures were taken by my friend Christopher Herron while driving around Nagano.  The pictures below are taken from the book Gods of Myth and Stone: Phallicism in Japanese Folk Religion by Michael Czaja, all from Nagano.

 

 

 

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For more on dosojin, see http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/dosojin-stone-markers.shtml
and http://darumapilgrim.blogspot.com/2005/09/doosojin-wayside-gods.html 

Suwa Taisha in wonderful Nagano

Akimiya, bustling with shrine-goers, some of whom as you can see in the foreground were belatedly celebrating the 7-5-3 children's ceremony. Notice the two-storey main building flanked by two corridor-like wings, typical of the Suwa style. Ceremonies were going on simultaneously in the two wings.

 

Nagano in the middle of Japan is fast becoming one of my favourite places. With its mountain scenery, unspoilt landscapes and ancient traditions, what’s not to like? You’ve got to fall for a place where flautists play music for gods in the autumn sunshine….

Flautist at an island shrine outside Harumiya, playing to entertain the kami

High plains drifting –
Snow tops and dreamy mists
Fuji’s sacred mount

From Kyoto it takes three hours by train to Matsumoto, which boasts a charming castle, from where it’s about forty minutes by car to Suwa Lake.  it’s enveloped by Suwa city and holiday hotels, but the area is most famous for its ancient shrine, Suwa Taisha.

 One in four, and four in one

Uniquely Suwa Taisha consists of four separate shrines.  Two of them are at the north-east of the lake, and two of them at the south-east. Each has its own character, and all have four tree trunks acting as markers of their sacred ground.  It’s become a characteristic feature of the region’s shrines, as you can see in the picture on the right.

It’s the rituals surrounding these pillars for which the shrine is famous, for every six years huge tree trunks are cut down and transported to the shrine.  This includes riding the sacred logs down a muddy hillside in sometimes deadly manner.

The festival was last held in 2010, so the next opportunity will be 2016.  The logs plunge down a 100-foot slope at a 35 degree angle, with men straddling them and running alongside.  The tradition is thought to be over 1200 years old, and during that time there have been many casualties. (For a video of the chaotic scenes at Onbashira Festival, see here.)

Riding the sacred logs at the Onbashira Festival

 

Kami bodies
Suwa Taisha’s other distinction is its worship of a holy mountain (shintaizan) as a focus for worship.  Only three major shrines still practise this ancient form of worship – Suwa, Omiya and Kanasawa Jinja.  In Suwa’s case Mt Moriya serves as the kami-body for the two upper shrines; the two lower shrines worship a sacred tree.

The main kami is Takeminakata, son of Okuninushi (the kami of Izumo).  It seems there was a link with the Izumo kingdom in ancient times and tradition has it that Takeminakata opposed the surrender of Izumo to Yamato (at the end of the fourth century?).  After losing a duel with a Yamato champion he was driven out to Suwa, and following his death he became associated with a dragon-serpent.

It is said that in winter when the lake freezes over, he leaves his home in the Upper Shrines to visit his bride who is enshrined in the Lower Shrines.  As he crosses over, cracks appear in the ice. (In recent years, due to global warming, the lake didn’t freeze over but in early 2012 when it did a ritual was held on the ice.  For a report, click here.)

Nature concerns and deer hunting
The two Upper Shrines comprise Honmiya (the main shrine) and Maemiya (smaller and set on a hillside). The Lower Shrines consist of Harumiya (the cutest and most compact) and Akimiya (busy and with striking architecture).  The names of the two lower shrines (Spring and Autumn) suggests an agricultural focus, so that as a whole Suwa Taisha covers mountain, lake, tree and rice…  fundamental Shinto concerns.

Deer hunting is far from a Shinto concern, yet Suwa Taisha was also known in the past for its encouragement of the practice. At Maemiya is a long hall where 72 deer heads used to be laid out in a yearly festival.  Despite the widespread observance of Buddhist precepts forbidding the eating of meat, the shrine issued amulets saying ‘Permission to eat deer’.  The custom continued until Meiji times, when nationwide regulations forbade ‘pollution’ from blood.  Fish continued to be offered to kami as they could be cooked whole and hence blood was not shed.

Worship at Honmiya

Hot spring water basin, highly welcome in winter

One of the four sacred pillars at Maemiya

Picture of the Onbashira Festival

Manga prayers: entertaining the kami modern style

Bottomless sake ladels to wish for easy birth (so the baby slips through easily!)

Omikuji fortune slips at Akimiya, decoratively displayed

Priestly purification at Akimiya

Harumiya, cutest and most compact of the four Suwa Taisha shrines. Notice the thick shimenawa rice rope in Izumo style, reflecting the shrine's connection with the ancient Izumo kingdom

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Information from the shrine brochure and Joseph Cali’s forthcoming Guide to Shinto Shrines

Yaegaki Shrine and fertility symbols

Entrance to Yaegaki Shrine with characteristic Izumo-style rice rope

Japan is a land of pilgrimages, and wherever you go there’s some kind of ‘course’ to follow.  In former times this would have involved walking; nowadays it’s done for the most part by bustour or car!

Tree opening with phallus

‘Ou Rokusha’ is a six-shrine tour in the area around Matsue, which was popular in Edo times.  While visiting Izumo Taisha for the kamiarisai (the kami are still up there incidentally), I took the opportunity to spend a morning driving round.  The six shrines were all prominent in their day, and all seem related to the primal creation myths.

Of the six, Yaegaki stands out – for various reasons!  It’s particularly popular for its enmusubi (love connection), so much visited by young girls.  The shrine is dedicated to Susanoo no mikoto, the storm god, and his bride, Inata-hime.  That provides the love dimension.  Also enshrined is their son, which provides the fertility aspect.

Dotted around the shrine grounds are phallic symbols, to which people wanting to become pregnant direct their prayers, plus a number of trees whose entwined trunks symbolise the union of lovers.

A cedar love symbol, standing in front of the shrine

One of Yaegaki's subshrines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

People with fertility problems, disease or simply wanting a baby are invited to pray here

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like other shrines in the region, the inner sanctuary once housed mural paintings depicting mythological scenes (now installed in the treasury).  Not far from the shrine buildings is a grove and pond, which is said to be the original site of worship in ancient times.  Even now the cedars suggest it would once have held a numinous quality, and according to legend Princess Inada supposedly gazed into this ‘Mirror Pond’ when beautifying herself.

Mythology relates how princess Inata (also called Kushinada) was about to be eaten by an eight-headed dragon, when Susanoo arrived and slew the serpent after cunningly feeding the eight heads with saké to befuddle them. The fair maiden he rescued then became his beloved, and they supposedly settled down on the very spot where Yaegaki Shrine now stands.

Young women watch their fortunes, hoping they will quickly sink

The pond is used now for fortune telling.  The idea is that one puts a coin on one’s fortune paper and places it in the water.  How long it takes to sink indicates how long one will have to wait to find one’s loved one.  While I was there, several girls watied excitedly to see their fate, but I couldn’t help noticing at the back of the pond one fortune paper floating sodden and abandoned.  Love was all around, but sadly it seemed someone had been excluded.

Floating fortune slip

Hearn was here! The writer, who lived in nearby Matsue, is important enough in Japan to warrant his own signboard

Lick on this! A fertility sweet sold at the shop opposite the shrine

Shinzo (Shinto statues)

Male and female kami (Muromachi Period)

 

Last week I went to an exhibition of kami statues at Otsu History Museum.  The statues came from Shiga prefecture – ‘land of gods and buddhas’ –  together with mandala and photographs of Hiyoshi Shrine’s Sanno festival.  There were not only statues of kami in human form, but even as monkeys.  It all exemplified the rich and complex world of Shinto-buddhist syncretism.

Before the eighth century there were no representations of kami.  Not surprising, really, since they were originally conceived as formless.  But the arrival of Buddhism with its powerful array of sculpture proved seductive. Could not kami be similarly portrayed?

Kami in priestly garb (12th century)

With Buddhist priests worshipping kami as temple protectors, it was only a matter of time.  By the 9th century, two distinct styles had emerged.  One showed the kami dressed as courtiers (as above), inspired by ancestor worship and embodiment of the dead.  The other showed the kami as Buddhist priests (on the right).

Kami as Buddhist priests?!

There were Shinto-Buddhist syncretic practices as early as the seventh century, with Buddhist priests worshipping kami as protective guardians of their temples.  The priests came to see the kami as seekers after enlightenment and prayed for their salvation.

For Buddhists all things have buddhist nature, so it was natural to assume that kami do too. As Japanese manifestations of the universal principle, they were recognised by priests as being closer to the people than the more remote figures of Buddhism.  In one famous example, Ippen, founder of the Ji sect of Buddhism, received confirmation of his faith from the kami at Kumano Shrine.

When it came to making statues, the kami were often pictured as monks, showing their true essence. Sogyo Hachiman, protector of the giant Buddha at Todaiji, is the most famous example. The statues had a numinous power deriving from the tradition of sacred trees and a sense that the tree-spirit had entered into the wood.  Compared with Buddhist sculpture (butsuzo), there was greater respect for the material. Statues were carved from a single wood block, with occasional add-ons for feet or hands.

Through a special ceremony (called kanjo), the statue could be imbued with the spirit of the kami to become a sacred object.  In this case it would serve as ‘goshintai‘ (the spirit-body) of the kami and be kept out of sight in the shrine’s honden.  Sometimes too there was an eye-opening service in the Buddhist tradition, in which the eyes were painted in to denote spiritual awakening.

With deconsecration of shrines in the Meiji era, many of the statues were lost or stored away.  Several found their way to foreign museums. Some were even retained by Buddhist temples.  Though rarely if ever seen at shrines nowadays, the shinzo statues remain a graphic depiction of how Japanese visualised their kami.

Female kami at Matsuo Taisha in Kyoto

 

Male deity at Daishogun Hachi Shrine, Kyoto

 

Information taken from Shinzo: Hachiman Imagery and its Development by Christine Guth Kanda (Harvard Uni. Press, 1985)

The Tao of Green

This extract is taken from an article by William Horden in The Huffington Post last Friday (Nov 18):
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/william-horden/the-tao-of-green-part-2_b_1070108.html?ref=religion 

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The inevitable fully green society is not simply waiting for the reformation of social institutions that have vested interest in maintaining the status quo. If only it were that easy. No, what the inevitable fully green society is waiting for is the transformation of human nature.

We are not going to be able to rein in the powerful institutions that stand in the way until we rein in the worst traits of humanity — those that allow us to desecrate nature and exploit our fellow human beings without conscience or thought of the long-range consequences. As I pointed out in Part 1 of this series, I find that Taoism is particularly timely in addressing the dilemmas we face through its profound love of both humanity and nature.

Taoism is the indigenous lifeway of ancient China, a philosophy based on bringing people into accord with the Tao, or Way, that creates and sustains all form from within. Like many other schools of thought that seek to ground individuals in the living reality of nature and psyche, Taoism begins with the traditional recognition that the Way is beyond the rational mind’s grasp of words and ideas.

The Tao that can be spoken is not the Tao itself.
The name that can be given is not the name itself.
The unnameable is the source of the universe.
……
Its wonder and manifestations are one and the same.
Since their emergence, they have been called by different names.
Their identity is called the mystery.
From mystery to further mystery:
The entry of all wonders!

~~ Tao Te Ching, Chapter 1, trans. Chang Chung-yuan

This famous passage introduces several key points that make it particularly well-adapted to green philosophy. First, it recognizes that there exists a mysterious immaterial force at work in the on-going creation of matter and life. Second, it recognizes that its spiritual wonder and material manifestations are one and the same. And, third, it recognizes that focusing on the self-sameness of spirit and matter is the Way to a personal, first-hand, experience of the unnameable source of the universe.

In short, we are brought into accord with the immaterial source of creation when we experience all matter as spirit. Seeing that everything physical is the sacred necessarily alters our perception of self and other, drawing us into the oceanic experience of the non-duality of the One. If all matter, in other words, is sacred, then it becomes impossible to treat it otherwise: neither other people nor nature can be harmed.

Harmony with nature; Shinto too could take a leading role

Caitlin Stronell: Shinto priest

1) Previously we had an interview with your friend, Pat Ormsby.  I believe you also trained at Asakawa Konpira, as well as doing the residential course at Kotohira.  How did you find it?

I loved it. From the basic routine of lights out at 10.00pm and getting up at 5.00am, no TVs, computers or daily hassles. The idea of retreats has always appealed to me and this one is such a different space, where your mind is totally occupied with the task at hand—whether to move your left foot first or right, whether to bow or not, long hours of sitting in seiza and chanting and wondering how to make your legs function again, etc. etc.  I’ve never been on any ‘spiritual retreats’, but I think this may be a little different in that you are not just trying to achieve heightened personal awareness but you are committing to a community – the one at the Kotohira Hongu, but also the one at your home shrine, your local community.

Participants on the Kotohira training course are predominately female, unlike elsewhere

 

2) You’re presently in India, but after qualifying in what way did you practise as a priest?

When I was in Japan I lived very close to the Asakawa Konpira, so I was there quite often for the monthly ceremony and New Year duties.  I’ve also done ground-breaking ceremonies, weddings and funerals, a house-warming ceremony for a community tree-house and I did a ceremony to pray for the souls of all the people who died on the Hachioji-jo mountain hundreds of years ago. It’s conducted annually by a group that is trying to preserve the natural environment of the area. Basically, whatever was needed in the local community.

3) How have Japanese reacted to you?  Was there any resistance to the idea of a foreign priest?

I went along to the Kotohira course a year after Pat Ormsby, so I think she’d cleared up any resistance at the main shrine! Once I did a lecture entitled ‘Spiritual Environmentalism’ at the Jinja Honcho which, of course, represents the establishment, and while there was what might be called resistance, or maybe just a certain suspicion, when we first approached them, by the time I actually was doing the presentation, they gave me a very nice introduction in which they said that in this day and age young Japanese are often completely ignorant of Shinto and it’s nice to see foreigners taking such an interest. People are often surprised to see a foreign priest, of course, but mostly they are very happy.

Serving 'omiki' (sacred saké) at Asakawa Konpira

4) It’s said the Shinto establishment is largely right-wing.  As someone engaged politically on the left, have you found any conflict with your Shinto beliefs?

None whatsoever with my beliefs. I sometimes feel in conflict with the Shinto establishment, but I feel there is a lot of room in Shinto (perhaps more than in other religions) for diverse beliefs and positions. I remember reading an article on a group of World War 2 veterans who would have annual reunions at the Yasukuni Shrine, that bastion of the right-wing, but some of them were members of the Communist Party, some of them thought it was terrible that the War Criminals had also been enshrined there, some believed that Japan should pull out of the US alliance—there was a whole spectrum of opinions and thoughts, yet they all came together once a year and conducted a Shinto ceremony for their fallen comrades. My own beliefs are very simple and revolve around the wonder of nature; they have nothing to do with the Emperor, the ‘Japanese Nation’ or wearing hinomaru hachimaki. Obviously I sometimes have a hard time with people who try to claim that this political construction is what Shinto is all about. Luckily I don’t meet too many people like that.

5) What are you doing now in India, and how does your training as a Shinto priest fit into your future?

Caitlin discusses with Pat Ormsby the reading of a prayer

I’m doing a Ph.D. on nuclear power policy and anti-nuclear movements in India and Japan. Basically, I’m a political science scholar, and this has always tended to be the way I’ve viewed the world. In fact it was my work on the environmental movement when I was doing my Master’s Degree in Japan that brought me into contact with Asakawa Konpira. What a lucky break that was! If it wasn’t for that meeting and my subsequent priest training I may well have gone through the rest of my life seeing the environment in purely political terms. I was reminded of the spiritual and emotional aspects of my relationship with nature and I think this has made my life much more balanced. I am still very interested in the link between politics and religion and how any religion, including Shinto, can be manipulated politically. In terms of the future, I do plan to come back to Japan and I would really like to see what new directions I can take regarding Shinto on both local and international levels. I think there are lots of unmet needs, and in some cases open wounds, in local communities in these times of social and economic upheaval which ceremony can be very powerful in addressing. There is also a need, I think, to explain and promote Shinto on a more international level, in peace and environmental organizations, for example.

6) I wonder if you’ve had the opportunity to compare Shinto with Hinduism at all?  

A little—not as much as I would like, but living in India, you can’t help bumping into Hinduism all the time. I think Hinduism and Shinto are very similar in lots of ways—polytheistic is the obvious one, and indeed some gods came to Japan via Hinduism. Benten-sama is originally the Hindu goddess Saraswati and in fact the god of the shrine I belong to, Konpira, has been traced to the Hindu crocodile god that is the vehicle for Ganga, the goddess of the river Ganges. There are also many differences, Hinduism having a much more developed philosophical angle, as well as of course the Vedas and myriad other texts, laws and commentaries, which are largely absent in Shinto traditions. The thing that is very interesting for me is that Hinduism has been (and continues to be) used in the same way that Shintoism was, to whip up nationalism and for very political ends. I guess fundamentalists of any ilk have more in common with each other than with the actual practitioners of the religions they are trying to redefine.

Purifying other priests at the Asakawa Konpira shrine

 

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