Author: John D. (Page 68 of 202)

Post-New Year (Shimogamo)

A graffiti ema for the year of the monkey - first time I've seen this large scale ema put out for people to write their New Year greetings on

A graffiti ema for the year of the monkey –  large scale votive plaque on which people write their New Year wishes

This year I made my Hatsumode rather late, which enabled me to see some of the trappings of the new year while avoiding all the crowds.  Shrine staff were in relaxed mood and had time to chat, while taking stock of the new year custom.  As with other shrines, the New Year income at Shimogamo makes up a large percentage of the shrine’s annual income.

With Japan’s defeat in WW2, State Shinto was dismantled by General MacArthur and GHQ, and the result was that shrines became autonomous financial institutions.  Some have managed to survive by leasing out land or managing properties, some are dependent on the goodwill of parishioners, and some like Shimogamo look to make money from tourism.  Some barely survive at all and have sacrificed whatever greenery they had in order to live off the dues from car parking space.  Some indeed have not survived (as for example Oiwa Jinja).

Shimogamo is forever trying to improve its appeal, and as usual I was intrigued to see what novel ideas the shrine priests had come up with to entice or entertain visitors. This was the year that English language arrived at the shrine, as can be seen below.  It was the year too when graffiti ema arrived (see above). Unfortunately too, it was also the year that trees in the shrine precincts were sacrificed for the shrine’s financial security (see here for further information).

Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow.  Shrine tradition has it that shrine founder and clan leader, Kamo Taketsunomi, manifested as a three-legged crow sent by Amaterasu to guide Emperor Jimmu on his Yamato conquest.

Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow. Shrine tradition has it that the founding kami, Kamo Taketsunomi, manifested as a three-legged crow sent by Amaterasu to guide Emperor Jimmu on his Yamato conquest.  This gaudy model was made by students at Seika Art University.

What's in store for the coming year?  The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind...

What’s in store for the coming year? The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind…

An English language explanation of 12 different amulets and an introduction to the concept of ‘ofuda’

 

Priests empty out the takings from one of the popular Chinese zodiac subshrines in the Shimogamo inner compound.

Priests empty out the takings from one of the popular Chinese zodiac subshrines in the Shimogamo inner compound.

One non-paying visitor was this heron, enjoying the fresh pure water of the Mitarashi stream running through the shrine’s grounds

Shimogamo's financial plight has led the shrine to chop down trees either side of these screens, where expensive luxury apartments will replace nature within the precincts of this World Heritage shrine

Shimogamo’s financial plight has led the shrine to chop down trees either side of these screens, where expensive luxury apartments will replace nature within the precincts of this World Heritage shrine

Political Shinto

Jinja Honcho campaign

Aiming for a Japan with greater autonomy and to make the constitution ‘ours’, says a banner by Jinja Honcho (source unknown)

This year promises to be crucial for official Shinto, since the nationalists currently in power are determined to steer the country back in the direction of State Shinto.  Their efforts centre around revising the postwar constitution, forced on the country by the US according to right-wingers who seek to reinstate the status of the emperor as head (rather than symbol) of the nation.

One can expect a lot of imperial propaganda when the Abe regime legitimises Ise Jingu as the nation’s highest religious institution during the G8 summit in the coming year.  The move to bolster imperial authority is accompanied by pressure from Jinja Honcho for closer ties between Shinto and the state, as noted here by scholar Mark Teeuwen:

“New Year — the time a majority of Japanese visit shrines. This year, they were met with a campaign by Jinja Honchô/Nippon Kaigi to support revision of the constitution so as to “restore Japan’s autonomy” — which would also involve a return of shrine ritual to the public sphere. Jinja Honchô is now apparently more open and aggressive about its conservative agenda, shocking quite a few unsuspecting romantics in the process.”

Revise the constitution

A form for shrine visitors to fill in stating that they agree with the proposal to reform the constitution (photo source unknown)

Wanted (says this shrine poster): 10 million people who agree with changing the constitution to make a 'Beautiful Japan' in the words of prime minister Abe Shinzo

Wanted (says this shrine poster): 10 million people who agree with changing the constitution to make a ‘Beautiful Japan’ in the words of prime minister Abe Shinzo (photo source unknown)

The big clean-up (Ōsōji)

Cleaning and washing begins with one's hands

Cleaning and washing begins with one’s hands

Cleansing and purification are central to the values of Shinto, and the big clean-up at the end of the year can be seen as part of the spirit of revival that underpins much of the religion. It should be noted that with Westernisation in Meiji times, the country adopted the Gregorian calendar and that the New Year of former times would have taken place in February with the promise of spring in the air.  Regeneration at such a time made perfect sense.

Cleanliness is all-pervasive in Japanese culture, from bath-washing etiquette to the cleaning of temples and schools.  It is carried out in religious fashion, in both senses of the term.   It’s of interest therefore that today’s Japan Times recently carried a timely article on the subject.  It focusses on practical tips rather than the spiritual aspect, but nonetheless it:s enough to remind readers of how energising the  process can be.  Cleaning as ‘a way to make the world a better place’ is deeply rooted in the Japanese psyche.  (Below are selected extracts; for the full article, please see here.)

Green Shinto wishes its readers a clean and prosperous New Year!

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‘Ōsōji’: ways to keep your home clean

Three experts discuss their philosophy on the New Year’s chore that everybody loves — cleaning

by

Miko cleaningWith 2015 drawing to a close, it’s time for people nationwide to dig out their household cleaning products, grab a pair of rubber gloves and don a face mask before dusting, sweeping and scrubbing their living spaces from top to bottom to ensure they are spotless come New Year’s Day.

Called ōsōji (big cleanup), the ritual is traditionally performed at the end of the year, offering households an opportunity to reset and begin the new year afresh.

Ōsōji rituals are believed to have originated from the year-end tradition of susu-harai, which literally means “to dust the soot away.” In the Edo Period (1603-1868), susu-harai was observed on Dec. 13 and households would work together to clean the living quarters in order to welcome Toshigami, or deities of the new year.

According to a survey taken by Duskin Co., however, the number of people who actually clean their households and workplaces at the end of the year is on the decrease. The survey results, which began in 2004, show that the number peaked in 2008 with 71.7 percent, dropping to 58 percent in 2014. Imamura acknowledges that it is probably better to save some cleaning chores until Golden Week, when the weather is milder.

“It’s important, for example, to open windows when cleaning and it is too cold to do that in the winter,” Imamura says. “It is practical to save some cleaning until a different time. … That said, I think that many Japanese people want to clean the house and begin the new year afresh.”

A purification hut of Yayoi times, showing just how far back the nation's concern with impurity goes

A purification hut of Yayoi times, showing just how far back the nation’s concern with impurity goes

Imamura’s career has taken a few twists and turns. He first started out as a banker at the now-defunct Long-Term Credit Bank of Japan before leaving to found a cram school in 1997 for students wishing to pass entrance exams for junior high school or universities. His cram school also provided education to hikikomori, a term given to young people who have trouble adjusting to a regular school or job, and become socially reclusive. In the course of his interactions with such students, he realized that one thing united them all — their rooms were incredibly messy.

“Their rooms were like a massive garbage pile,” Imamura says. “It is impossible to help people become positive thinkers in a disgusting environment like that. I realized then that who you are depends on the environment you live in, and so I decided to try to help people change their surrounding environment.”

While running the cram school in Yokohama, which he sold in June, Imamura also began to receive requests from companies to hold corporate training courses on cleaning. He hasn’t looked back since.

“We all value living in the moment,” Imamura says. “Most hikikomori students, adults who are distressed and athletes who are going through a slump have one thing in common — they are either regretting their past or worrying about their future. So I train people on how to let go of the past and the future in order to concentrate on the present. Put simply, the best way to start is by cleaning.”

Satoru Imamura’s top cleaning tip: Imamura advises amateurs to change their way of thinking and start by cleaning every day for just 10 seconds. Cleaning can be overwhelming, Imamura says, but it’s more manageable when broken down into small parts. Thus, he says, start with one thing at a time, whether that simply be opening a window or washing a glass. “It’s important to clean for 10 seconds on a daily basis,” Imamura says. “And then keep doing it.”

Mitsue Yamasaki

DSCN0433A homemaker cooks, cleans and takes care of the household-related issues that are necessary to keep a family running. But unlike “ordinary” people with “real jobs,” she does not get paid.

However, every year for the past 14 years, jobs search engine Salary.com, has been calculating how much an average homemaker’s annual salary would be, cross-referencing its salary database with survey results from homemakers on their domestic jobs. The average amount is pretty substantial: An average homemaker’s annual salary in 2008 was about ¥12 million, a figure that didn’t change significantly through 2014.

When Mitsue Yamasaki, a member of Zenkoku Tomo no Kai (National Friendship Association), a volunteer organization to promote a healthy and stable home environment, referenced the 2008 number during a recent lecture on reorganizing the inside of a home, a look of surprise spread through the audience.

“When I ask women to guess, they usually say between ¥2 million and ¥6 million,” Yamasaki said during her lecture. “This number shows just how important the work of the homemakers really is and I wanted to share that with everyone today.”

The association was established in 1930 by women who were primarily readers of Fujin no Tomo, a lifestyle magazine founded by the country’s first female journalist, Motoko Hani.

misogi waterfall

Hani wrote a series of books on her philosophies on life, from house cleaning and book-keeping to religious beliefs and education. Zenkoku Tomo no Kai currently has about 20,000 members and more than 180 branches at home and abroad.

Yamasaki has been dubbed a super homemaker after NHK featured her alongside several friendship association members on a morning information program. Indeed, Yamasaki can transform any cluttered home into a tidy and easy-to-use living space — no matter how bad a state it is in to begin with.

Yamasaki’s own home is a perfect example of an organized living space. Every set of items is divided into baskets or separated using recycled milk cartons. Her house is sparkling clean, warm and welcoming. In fact, Yamasaki sometimes holds open homes for Zenkoku Tomo no Kai members to show visitors that you don’t need a big house to have everything organized.

During her lecture, Yamasaki also referred to the government’s 2008 new school guideline that officially included “cleaning” as a student activity. Historically in Japan, cleaning classrooms and toilets have been a part of education for a number of generations. She notes that it is important to have children engaged in house cleaning as well when they are still young.

“Cleaning helps children learn that people need to look after themselves,” Yamasaki says. “Then, when it’s time to carry out ōsōji with everyone in the family at the end of the year, it is an opportunity to teach them to clean not only for yourself but for others as well. In this way, children get to learn about doing things for other people at a young age.”

According to a survey compiled by Zenkoku Tomo no Kai, a homemaker spends an average of five hours a day doing housework, of which the majority is spent in the kitchen.

Thus, Yamasaki and fellow super homemakers typically go around helping other members reorganize their kitchen. However, she stresses that they generally only work on the kitchen because they want to use this makeover as an opportunity for young women to think for themselves and remake the rest of the house. “Our goal is to make the world a better place by making our homes a better home,” Yamasaki says. “What we are doing is providing real-life examples.”

The pond where by tradition Izanagi performed the first ritual cleansing, or misogi

The pond where by tradition Izanagi performed the first ritual cleansing, or misogi

New Year’s fortune

For those in need of a little midwinter relief at this time of long dark nights in the northern hemisphere, the Japan Today site has a light-hearted look at omikuji fortune slips.  It’s designed to introduce Japanese customs to foreigners in the form of a manga. Apart from the obvious, there are some interesting titbits of information.  For one thing I didn’t know that omikuji hangers that one sees at many shrines were erected as an environmental measure to protect trees.

Another interesting item of interest is the assertion that love is not mentioned in relation to marriage in fortune slips because of the legacy of Edo times when omikuji became popular. The social tendency of the age was to form marital alliances of mutual convenience, as a way of cementing bonds between families or as a trade-off between money and status.  Love was seen as fickle and fragile, a temporary passion which would not form a stable basis for marriage. Duty and obligation were valued more highly.

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24

Pre-New Year (Shimogamo)

Monkey ema

The large shrine ema for the coming year of the monkey is up and ready

Firewood at Shimogamo

Wood for burning on New Year’s Eve to keep participants warm while they drink their sweet saké

Kimono ladies

Three more days till New Year’s Eve, but some have dressed up already

Sake offerings

Saké offerings are in place

Eitquette in English

Foreign visitors have increased dramatically this year in Kyoto

busy miko

Miko are busy getting things ready for the big sales over Hatsumode

sweet dumplings

‘Monkey dumplings’ have been resurrected after an interval of 140 years

Hitogata

Hitogata ready to absorb impurities. Write your name and age, then rub it over the body and breathe your impurities into it. Later it will be ritually destroyed in a year-end purification.

Monkey pointing at the moon

The shrine is using a well-known Zen story about the monkey pointing to the moon as part of its celebrations this year. For Y10,000 you can purchase one of these banners to be hung on the shrine, which will bring your family well-being in the year ahead.

Momiji maples

This year has been unusually mild, and some of the maples in the Tadasu wood are just turning red unusually late this year….

Tadasu destruction of trees

….  yet just over the road the destruction of part of the shrine woods goes on at full speed.

Kemari poster

Looking ahead to the new year, there will be ‘kemari’ kick-ball to entertain the kami on Jan 4

New Year in London

45 Yakushima 9 Two monkeys

Green Shinto wishes readers a Happy Year of the Monkey! (photo from John Dougill’s ‘Japan’s World Heritage Sites’)


The following text is courtesy of  the
Japan Centre, Piccadilly, London

Sake Ceremony & Mochi Pounding Events for New Year
New Year will be soon upon us again and that means it’s time for some traditional Japanese celebrations! New Year, called Shōgatsu in Japanese is one of the most important festivals of the year with plenty of tasty food and drink, as well as a fantastic variety of interesting customs.

If you want to experience some of the fun that happens during the Japanese New Year celebrations, why not join us at Japan Centre and get involved. There’s free samples to be had to make it even more tempting. :)

sake casksSake ‘Cask Opening’ Ceremony – 11.30 AM

Kagami Biraki literally means ‘opening the mirror’ in Japanese and refers to an ancient ritual of opening either a type of mochi, or more recently breaking open a ceremonial cask of sake. This is a common practice which although traditionally done just after New Year, is now popularly done at weddings, opening ceremonies for new businesses and other various special occasions in Japan.

We will be breaking open our very own cask of Gekkeikan sake at Japan Centre Piccadilly. You can even grab a free taster as a bit of hair of the dog after New Year’s.

pounding mochi (mochitsuki)Mochi Pounding – 12.00 PM

Called mochitsuki in Japanese, mochi pounding is the custom of pounding large amounts of mochi rice into soft, stretchy and sticky mochi. Using a giant hammer and a huge mortar, one person hammers down on the mochi while another person adds water and flips the mochi over in between pounding to stop it from sticking. It is a technique that takes a lot of coordination, but is certainly quite a show to watch.

Want to see some authentic mochi pounding at Japan Centre? Head over to Japan Centre Piccadilly and enjoy the spectacle. We will even have some free mochi to give away to anyone who wants to try this authentically made Japanese sweet.

Japan Centre – Japanese Food Hall Since 1976
19 Shaftesbury Ave. London W1D 7ED
(Situated between GAP and Jamie’s Diner, enter via the mirrored escalator entrance)
Tel. 020 3405 1246.  Email: foodshop@japancentre.com

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For an account of New Year and the role of the ‘kagami mochi’ (below), see this earlier piece here.
For more about New Year decorations, see here.  For more about the New Year celebrations in general, please click here.

kagami mochi

Meiji Shrine New Year

Crowds wait their turn to offer prayers at the Meiji Shrine in Tokyo, on the second day of the New Year Saturday, Jan. 2, 2010. | AP

Crowds wait their turn to offer prayers at the Meiji Shrine in Tokyo, on the second day of the New Year Saturday, Jan. 2, 2010. | AP

In the days leading up to the New Year, it seems right to turn attention to what will be the nation’s no. 1 most popular spot for shrine visiting.  That’s just what The Japan Times did yesterday with its celebratory article below.  It’s timely too, since Green Shinto recently did a piece on Meiji’s burial mound here in Kyoto, together with an example of the emperor’s verse (one of 100,000 he composed!).  (For a previous piece on the Meiji Shrine forest, see here.)

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Emperor Meiji (1867-1912), courtesy Wikicommons

Emperor Meiji (1867-1912), courtesy Wikicommons

Meiji Shrine: grounds to ring in the year
by Dec 24, 2015

Amidst the raging storms of life
Never flinch, o heart of man —
No more than the wind-tossed pine
Deep-rooted in the rock
— Emperor Meiji

This classical waka poem was written, in English, on the omikuji (paper fortune) that I recently drew when I visited the Tokyo’s Meiji Shrine, a Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.

Emperor Meiji was known for his love of composing waka, having left behind a collection of about 100,000 poems for his people. His consort, Empress Shoken, is also believed to have composed around 30,000 of her own. Out of both the Emperor and Empress’ works, 30 were picked to be used for omikuji [fortune slips] — to become guiding words of wisdom for our daily life.

“Written omikuji (at shrines) usually represent either kichi (good luck) or kyō (bad luck). Ours, however, feature traditional waka poems written by either the Emperor Meiji or the Empress Shoken,” says Miki Fukutoku, manager at Meiji Shrine’s public-relations department. “It’s something very particular to and only available at our shrine.”

As a relatively new place of worship, established less than a century ago in 1920, Meiji Shrine was originally based around the concept of wakonyōsai — a belief that treasured the Japanese “soul,” while still embracing influences from the West. Its unusual omikuji, therefore, is not the only unique feature of the shrine.

“People tend to think Meiji Shrine is just the main shrine; however, it’s actually about a much larger area that includes both inner and outer gardens,” Fukutoku says. “The main shrine (in the inner gardens) is symbolically traditional Japanese (by design), where you worship and pay your respects to the spirits. The outer garden is more Westernized — it contains the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery, which houses 80 paintings, and reflects the life of Emperor Meiji, who promoted friendly relations with overseas countries. The symmetric alignment of ginkgo trees in front of the gallery is believed to be designed after the Palace of Versailles.”

Meiji Shrine woods

The Treasure Museum of the Gaien gardens perhaps exemplifies this blend of Japanese and Western influences. Its architectural design resembles Shosoin, a treasure house that belongs to Nara Prefecture’s famous Todai-ji Temple. Unlike the temple, however, Meiji Shrine’s Treasure Museum is not made of wood but of reinforced concrete.

The shrine’s three main areas — Naien (inner) precinct with shrine buildings; Gaien (outer) precinct with the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery and sports facilities, including the country’s second-oldest baseball stadium Meiji Jingu Stadium; and the Meiji Memorial Hall, a wedding hall — are also amid 700,000 sq. meters of lush forest. Around 170,000 trees of 245 different species were arranged by landscape architect Seiroku Honda (1866-1952) and his assistants Takanori Hongo (1877-1945) and Keiji Uehara (1889-1981), who famously refused the proposal of the then-Prime Minister Shigenobu Okuma (1838-1922) to exclusively use cedar. Honda wanted to create an evergreen forest, and cedar, it turned out, was an unsuitable tree for the area’s soil.

“In 2011, we surveyed the species living in the area as part of our preparations for the (shrine’s) 100th anniversary,” Fukutoku says. “This man-made forest was designed to last forever, so we’re keeping a record to see whether it’s evolving according to plan. The research so far says that, in terms of biodiversity, the forest contains far fewer alien species compared with its surrounding areas of central Tokyo.”

That abundance of local nature has attracted visitors other than worshippers to the shrine, where many rare species such as jewel beetles, kingfishers and northern goshawks are commonly seen among the trees and plants. It is home to Japan’s endangered golden orchid and kanto tanpopo, a native dandelion protected from invasive foreign species by the barrier of the forest.

Meiji Shrine tree

“The forest is now about to reach the end of Honda, Hongo and Uehara’s protocol and experts say it will remain this condition for some time, since camphor trees can live live 300 to 400 years,” says Fukutoku. “We won’t live for that long, though,” she continues with a laugh, “so, the next plan will be passed on to the next generation.”

Fukutoku says that despite all these attractions of Meiji Shrine, the number of non-Japanese visitors has only gradually increased over the years, even though she also says, “A visit to Meiji Shrine could be an easy way of introducing yourself to Japanese culture.”

“The shrines in the suburbs may offer a more authentic atmosphere, but we’re more accessible — even for someone like President Barack Obama, who came to visit last year. It’s in the center of Tokyo, but it is also suddenly within a forest and a sacred space of worship.”

The shrine’s most important festival, the Reisai (Autumn Grand Festival), held on Nov. 3 to commemorate Emperor Meiji’s birthday, invites ambassadors of many countries to view various traditional performances. Yet even though this is the most significant day for the shrine, Fukutoku says it is the upcoming new year season that is always the busiest time of the year.

Of the 10 million visitors it receives each year, around 3 million head to the shrine for hatsumōde, during the first few days of the year. So it you’re thinking of heading there, too, there are a few things you might want to keep in mind.

Meiji Shrine has three entrances — Harajuku-guchi, Yoyogi-guchi and Sangubashi-guchi. For hatsumōde (NewYear when it is at its utmost crowded), Harajuku-guchi is usually the only entrance open. This is mainly to help control the crowd, but, as Fukutoku explains, it also leads visitors to follow the proper path to the main shrine.

“Since Harajuku Station was built before Meiji Shrine, it’s obvious that most visitors arrive from Harajuku-guchi. That’s why nearby Omotesando is named so, ‘omote‘ means ‘front’ and ‘sandō’ means ‘visiting road,’ ” continues Fukutoku. “The Harajuku-guchi torii gate is therefore also the biggest one out of the three entrance gates (besides the dai-torii (large size gate) between Harajuku-guchi and Yoyogi-guchi). It’s usually a one-way path, but (if you take it), you will see all noted sights of the shrine.”

In 2020, the year of the Tokyo Olympics, Meiji Shrine will celebrate its 100th anniversary since its enshrinement and it faces renovations that Fukutoku says should help welcome more international visitors. “The preparation (for the 100th year) was scheduled to have started in fall, so we’re a little bit behind,” she explains. “But we are planning to make the area barrier free. Also, there are plans to repair the main shrine, which occasionally leaks through the roof during rainfall. That’s where the souls of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken are enshrined — it’s the most essential part of the Meiji Shrine.”


Meiji Shrine is open on New Year’s Eve from 6:40 a.m. through to 7 p.m. on New Year’s Day. It is then open from 6:40 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 2, 3 and until 6 p.m. on Jan. 4. For more information, visit www.meijijingu.or.jp/english/index.htmlFor suggestions on where to visit during New Year in Tokyo, including a New Year’s Eve parade of people dressed as foxes, see here.

An oasis of greenery in a city of concrete

An oasis of greenery in a city of concrete

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