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Original style of torii?

Matsuo Taisha torii, in Kyoto, with hanging sakaki branches

 

A visit to Matsuo Taisha today, where to celebrate the national holiday there was a saké festival in full flow. There was live music, high spirits and people in their cups.  The shrine is noted for its quality of water and saké connections, so it was good to see it being put to proper use.

Entering the precincts I was struck by the unusual torii, with withered sakaki branches hung upside down from the shimenawa.  A noticeboard nearby claimed that this may have been how early torii looked, with twelve sakaki branches suspended from a sacred rope.

Really, I thought to myself?  First time I’ve heard that…   my idea of early torii is of a shimenawa slung between two poles or sakaki/bamboo branches.  So I couldn’t help wondering where the shrine had got its idea from… Next time I go to Matsuo Taisha – and it’s worth multiple visits – I’m going to ask the priests about it.  The shrine claims to be the oldest in Kyoto, along with Kamigamo Jinja, with worship on the hill behind it dating back to the fourth century or beyond.  Perhaps they know something we don’t…

Afterwards I climbed the hill behind the shrine to visit the sacred rock (iwakura) where worship at this site originated.  It encapsulated everything I love about the essence of Shinto: awe, mystery and a sense of the divine in nature. When i get a moment, I’m going to post about it…

Bingo! Festival at Uetsuki Hachiman

It’s the season of festivals, and yesterday I attended the taisai (big festival) of the small shrine of Uetsuki Hachiman in Koriyama, near Nara.  The head priest is Rica Saitoh, who harbours plans for setting up a UK shrine.  Here she can be seen handing a tamagushi (branch of the sakaki tree) to a representative of the parishioners group.

Rica Saitoh hands a tamagushi (sakaki branch) to a representative from the parishioners

 

Tamagushi (sakaki branch)

Why do kami so enjoy sakaki branches?  I’ve never really seen a satisfactory answer, but I guess it’s like asking why does God so enjoy fir trees!  An obvious point is that they’re both evergreen and therefore represent the life-force, ever present even in the depths of winter.  In the case of sakaki, it’s said the reason for their use in ritual follows from the mythology, for in the Cave Myth of Amaterasu decorations are hung upon a sakaki tree in the great ‘ur-festival’ to lure her out from where she is hiding.  It begs the question: does ritual follow myth, or is myth made up to justify ritual?

One of the interesting points of the ritual was the use of boys to represent the two guardian figures, ‘sadaijin’ (Minister of the Left) and ‘udaijin’ (Minister of the Right), sometimes found guarding the entrance to Shinto shrines.  The figures are dressed in Heian era costume, and in this case the boys sat behind the statues.  Here’s a picture of the Minister of the Left, who ranks higher than the Right because of Taoist influence.  (Yin ranks higher than Yang, because that which yields overcomes the inflexible.  Dripping water will destroy rock in the end, and women will always win arguments with men in the end!)

Sadaijin guardians, statue and costumed boy

 

This is conjecture, but I think Minister of the Left and Right goes back to the building of Chinese-style capitals, with the emperor in the north being served by ministers who were in charge respectively of the two halves of the capital.  Even today Kyoto has a Left Ward (Sakyo-ku) and a Right Ward (Ukyo-ku), which are only left and right if one is looking southwards from the viewpoint of the emperor.  Think feng-shui…  I imagine that the two principal ministers of the august emperor were adopted by Shinto to serve the august kami by extension, as it were.

After the ritual there was a bit of a surprise.  Bingo!  This good old village hall standby was greatly enjoyed by the local schoolkids, and the wealth of prizes available meant that a good proportion went home happy.  I even won a bag myself.  After the bingo I was able to chat with the head priest and a miko for a while.  The latter is studying kagura dance from Saitoh sensei and told me she was drawn to the spiritual aspect, being a ‘healer’ and ‘channeler’ by profession.  Perhaps miko shamanism is experiencing a New Age resurgence.

A game of Bingo keeps the youngsters enthralled

 

There were a few stalls set up in the shrine grounds, and while eating some oden I noticed a stone marker for the ‘Hyakudo mairi’ (100 visits) of Shinto shrines.  It’s a form of pilgrimage, or walking prayer, which sometimes involves walking 100 times between fixed points.  In this case it involves circling the shrine building 100 times.  I’ve seen the practice done at a temple in Kyoto, with sutra muttered earnestly, though I’ve yet to see anyone do it at a Shinto shrine.  Perhaps, like me, most people prefer doing their pilgrimages up leafy hills rather than going round and round in circles…  There’s enough of that in everyday life, after all!

Hyakudo ishi, the stone marker to complete your hundred rounds of the shrine

All dressed up and nowhere to go. Costumes ready for the shrine procession the following day.

More Green Shoots

Woods near Hakone Jinja

 

Had lunch with Pat Ormsby today, Shinto priest and environmentalist, who told me the history of the Asakawa Konpira fight to protect the mountain on which it stands at Takao on the fringe of Tokyo.  The leading role the shrine played is an inspirational story of the direction that Shinto as a whole could take, if it is so willed.  It’s a story I hope to get up on Green Shinto in full.

Earlier in the week I had a meeting with a PhD researcher into Shinto’s complex environmental stance.  I’ve asked him to introduce his work here later this week. He suggested there had been movement towards green thinking in recent years, particularly the Shaso Gakkai (Association for the Study of Sacred Forests).  As anyone living in Japan will know, the oases of greenery in Japanese cities are as often as not in the grounds of shrines and temples.  These sacred woods have often been the sole green resistance to the onslaught of concrete.  Here’s what the founder of the study group, Ueda Masaaki, has to say on the purpose of his group…

“In 2002, I established an academic society called the Shaso Gakkai (Association for the Study of Sacred Forests). “Shaso” means chinju no mori (shrine grove). The association is global and includes both Japanese and foreign scholars specializing in history, folklore, biology, geography, urbanology, botany and zoology. We’re now in our eighth year, with 600 members whose aim is not only conservation but how to creatively utilize these shrine forests. After all, the jinja are rich in diversity. Divinity lies at the heart of Shinto thought, based on the belief that everything has life.”

Another positive sign for a greener Shinto has come recently from a surprising source: the Association of Shinto Shrines, known more for political than environmental conservatism.  This year it made a pledge to purchase timber for its shrines only from sustainably managed forests.  They hope in this way to help prevent the clearing of forest areas and the resultant soil erosion.  Given the amount of timber used in such projects as the 20-year rebuilding of Ise Shrine, this is a meaningful and very positive step in the direction of a green future.  There’s a short piece about it if you click here.

Here’s hoping these green shoots grow and thrive!

Bamboo grove at Iwashimizu Hachimangu, outside Kyoto

 

Outreach by Ueno Tenmangu Shrine

One shrine busily involving themselves with internationalistion is Ueno Tenmangu Shrine in Nagoya.  Not only did they produce the first non-Japanese priest to pass the Jinja Honcho exams, but they have worked together with U.C. Berkeley to produce English-language materials about Shinto on their website, here.

As you can see, the Table of Contents is pretty impressive…

Introduction 1 A Summary of the History of Shinto. Suzuka,Chiyono
2 The Characteristics of Shinto. Its Encounter with Western Sentiments and Values. Miwa,Takahiro
Chapters 1 Shrines and the Priesthood.
1-1 Present Day Shrine Organization. Handa,Shigeru
1-2 Education and Qualifications of Shinto Priests. Handa,Shigeru
Chapters 2 Ceremonies and Facilities.
2-1 The Structure of Shinto Ceremonies, and Etiquette. Suzuka,Chiyono
2-2 The institution and Facilities of the Shrine. Suzuka,Chiyono
Chapters 3 The Concept of Shrine Shinto
3-1 The World View in Japanese Mythology Suzuka,Chiyono
3-2 Salvation in Shinto. Suzuka,Chiyono
3-3 Ethics in Shinto. Katayama,Fumihiko
Chapters 4 Japanese Culture and Shinto
4-1 Japanese Culture and Shinto Katayama,Fumihiko
4-2 National Structure, The Imperial Family, The Grand Shrine at Ise and Shinto. Miwa,Takahiro
Chapters 5 Shinto in the Modern World
5-1 Japan’s Economic Success and Shinto. Katayama,Fumihiko
5-2 The Role of Shinto in an Agricultural Village Society. Miwa,Takahiro
5-3 The Role of Shinto in a Metropolitan Society, Shinto and the Future. Katayama,Fumihiko
5-4 The Social Function of Shinto in Modern Japan. Katayama,Fumihiko

 

A Shintoist in Europe: Douglas Bostok

A question that often comes up in the spread of Shinto overseas is how can people be a Shintoist when they have little or no access to a shrine. One person who considers himself a Shintoist despite living in southern Germany is classical conductor, Douglas Bostok. A frequent visitor to Japan, Douglas has set up his own altar at home, as you can see in the pictures.

Below Douglas explains how he came to Shinto, and how he practises it in his daily life.

Douglas Bostok with shrine personnel in the office of Tsubaki Shrine

 

I first went to japan in 1994 and was immediately impressed by the shrines i saw and the feeling i had of being at them.  In the years following I wished to deepen my knowledge and was introduced to Jinja Honcho – the shrine association in Tokyo. I met many kannushi – shinto priests. i was recommended to contact the Tsubaki Shrine inMie Prefecture, because many priests spoke English and had contact with the Tsubaki Shrine in the USA.

When I went there, I met guji (chief priest) Yamamoto, father-in-law of the current head priest. The impression he made on me is a lasting one. i have been a member of that shrine since, with many friends there and visits each year for misogi (water ascetism).  The head priest and many others have often visited my concerts and a deep relationship has evolved.  Each New Year i receive omomori (amulets), ofuda (talisman) and other things to renew my kamidana and accompany my friends, family and myself during the year.

With a priest friend at Ise Jingu

Tsubaki Daijinja has two main shrines, one dedicated to Sarutahiko Omikami and one to his wife Ame-no uzume-no mikoto, the deity of dance and the arts in general. As a professional conductor this is most fortuitous. The geijutsu-no omamori (arts charm) is always with me and receives special attention with a brief prayer to Uzume before all my concerts.

Apart from that i have visited many (by now hundreds) of shrines throughout Japan, often including parts not usually open to the public, taken part in many ceremonies and religious services, and made contact with numerous priests. i have collected artifacts from many of these shrines as well as receiving numerous presents from their staff.  At home i have an extensive collection of books on Shinto – most of the ones published in English, i guess, as well as norito (prayers), Kojiki and other works. Just at this moment I am reading a new book: A New History of Shinto. Fascinating!

Recently i visited Kokugakuin University in Tokyo where shinto priests study. A kannushi friend of mine who used to be a staff member of Jinja Honcho is now a teacher there.

Douglas Bostok's home altar

The items at my kamidana were acquired at various shrines and shops throughout Japan – not least Tsubaki Daijinja. The kamidana was blessed by a priest friend, Masatsugu Okutani a few years ago. I have a host more items and memorabilia apart from what can be seen in the photos.

The spirit of kami-no michi (way of the kami) accompanies me through my whole life and being, mainly in a quiet, supporting way. A shrine in Europe is a dream. A symphony concert in the shrine grounds at Tsubaki is a concrete plan i am working on currently.

(You can get information about Douglas’s professional life on his website, here.)

Rev. Barrish (Part Two)

Rev. Barrish in discussion with aikido practitioners at the Tsubaki America shrine. A statue of Sarutahiko-no-O-Kami, principal deity of the shrine, can be seen in the background.

 

5) I believe the shrine is now financially independent.  Where does the revenue come from?

Yes, we are what is called the “dokuritsu saisan” (financially independent branch). We remain very close organizationally and spiritually to Tsubaki Okami Yashiro and my teacher Yamamoto Yukiyasu Guji even though we operate independently financially. Of course operating the shrine, even of our size, is somewhat of a daunting task—we must pay taxes on much of our 23 acres as well as all supplies, utilities, maintenance, improvements, salaries, insurance etc…… shrine income comes in three main forms:

1) Gokitohryo (money donated to the Jinja at the time of conducting kito, or prayer ceremonies)

2) Juyohin (people wanting the Ofuda/ Kamidana, Omamori etc)

3) Sukeikai (members’ group who give donations and pay annual memberships)

Our parent shrine: Tsubaki Okami Yashiro in Mie is the well known Gokitoh Jinja or shrine where people go to receive Oharae and various types of ceremonies for families and companies and groups at all critical life junctures…..here at Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America we are also the Gokitoh Jinja, with Gokitohryo comprising probably around 80% of our support.

Firing the good luck arrow at the annual Setsubun festival

 

6) How easy or difficult would it be for others to follow in your path?  And would you say there are possibilities for Shinto shrines elsewhere in the US?

Yes, the possibility space for more Jinja operating in North America and Europe certainly exists. To be honest it is not so very easy, as there is quite a bit involved — my opinion is that such a Jinja should be a close Bun-shya (branch shrine of one in Japan), or at least the kannushi (priest) should be trained completely—there have been cases of people thinking it must be easy to have a shrine and calling themselves Negi without any training, basically making it up…I don’t think this would be a good situation.

Interestingly enough, most of the same skills that would be needed to operate a Jinja in Japan as well as a whole different skill set would be needed to succeed in such an endeavor outside of Japan. Given the right circumstance I am very willing to assist such a project.  Also I am hoping to find the right person to train here as next generation kannushi of this shrine…the combination of appropriate talents, multi-cultural comfort and desire to work very long hours for really low pay make it quite challenging to “fill the asagutsu” (shoes for the future).

7) Wicca paganism and shamanism have proved very popular in the West of late.  Shinto by contrast seems tied to Japan.  How do you see Shinto’s appeal in terms of non-Japanese and how can they practise despite the cultural isolation?

All human beings are equal under the sun because our lives all have their origin in divine solar Ki. Further, each human being receives the gift of having their lives sustained by the blessings of the sun. Ten-Chi Dai Shizen (Heaven, Earth and Great (divine) Nature) provides us with wisdom, strength and courage so we could harmonize positively with Daishizen-no-Meguri (ceaseless movements of Great Nature) and use our ingenuity to correct imbalance. The philosophy of harmonizing with nature and living according to the movements of the seasons serves as the foundation of Jinja Shinto.

This is quite simply the basis of our human existence. This is also the basis of Shinto – the way of progressing in harmony with divine nature. The path of gratitude to people and things that sustain your life, as well as the spirit of seeking cooperation is, I believe, a roadmap for human happiness and spiritual fulfillment.

Harmonising with nature at the Tsubaki America shrine

In my opinion Shinto, the genius of Japan, represents the basis of spirituality for human beings. Many people from diverse cultural backgrounds coming into contact with Shinto for the first time resonate completely with it and recognize that they have intuitively had the strong feelings of Shinto since their childhood time.

As for practicing in isolation, or away from communities —we are addressing this in two ways:

1) Our Tsubaki Kannagara Sukeikai (shrine members group) has people living all over the world (predominately in North America).  We are encouraging the formation of Sukeikai Shibu, or branches in various locations, with the idea of meetings and group activities;

2) By utilizing social media…for instance Tsubaki America Jinja has a Facebook group  https://www.facebook.com/groups/TsubakiShintoShrine/  that currently has around 1000 members—these members residing in various countries around the world and in various parts of North America are able to keep in contact, to stay connected with America Tsubaki Okami Yashiro, while learning about the seasonal observances and the life enhancing practices and attitudes of Jinja Shinto, as well as engaging in online dialogue with other members who may be on the opposite side of the globe.

Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America at New Year

 

Rev. Barrish, Tsubaki America priest (Part One)

1) How and when did you get the calling to become a Shinto priest?

Dougill Sensei, first may I say many congratulations regarding your excellent blog: Green Shinto, and also thank you so much for your recent Omairi/ shrine visit to Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America.

As for my personal history: I have the longish involvement as the teacher of Aikido, over 40 years… However even from before I found the Aiki training, I was very interested and very drawn to Shinto and the consciousness behind Natural Spirituality. I was living in Southern California—in my younger days I was the artist and the surfer. In any case I was doing my best to learn about Shinto when in the early 1970’s I was gifted with Nahum Stiskin’s excellent book The Looking Glass God. That book was really pivotal for me as I strongly resonated with Mr. Stiskin’s overview of Shinto. I then began to practice misogi shuho as best as I could and was very devoted to the daily practice of a simplified form of Shinto Meditation that I learned through Aikido and Macrobiotics.

Original Tsubaki shrine in Stockton, Ca., 1987-2001

In 1980 I relocated from Southern California to the Pacific Northwest with the goal of making the shrine for Gyo [ascetic practice] in a natural setting. In those days I was also very involved in the Shukyo (modern Shinto). In the 1980’s I was very popular as the instructor of Aikido and quite active to conduct the seminars…I was saving all proceeds with the goal of making a shrine. Then in 1987 I learned about Tsubaki America shrine in Stockton California.  I was able to meet Rev. Iwasaki who was the priest of the shrine at that time. I asked Rev Iwasaki at our first meeting if it was possible for me to become the Shinto Priest —- he told me it was quite impossible in the world of Jinja Shinto, but it was possible for me to learn better how to care for my shrine.

Yamamoto Yukitaka, Sendai Guji, who introduced Shinto to America

When I traveled to Tsubaki Okami Yashiro the first time it was quite an epiphany for me– I had visited many shrines on previous visits to Japan but visiting there was quite profound for me — I felt I had journeyed to the heart of the world and instantly felt more at home than I had ever felt before in my life.  Yamamoto Yukitaka Guji (the 96th generation High Priest of the shrine)  and all the kannushi [priests] of the shrine  were very kind to me and began to share many things with me —I was something of a pet to the shrine priests.  I did not think then to ever have the license of the Shinto priest but I was so impressed with Tsubaki Okami Yashiro and the work of the kannushi that I was very serious to learn all I could. I felt without fail that the Jinja Shinto I saw there was the highest expression of human beings cooperating with Okamisama and Divine Nature.

2) What did your training consist of exactly?

Well, as I mentioned, in the 1980’s and early 1990’s although I did not think I could receive the Kannushi Shomeisyo/ Priest License, I was very active with Shinto Meditation and purification practices…also I had built the shrine and wanted to learn how best to care for the enshrined Kami…so I was traveling to Tsubaki Okami Yashiro 2 or 3 times each year and staying for a few weeks while receiving intense instruction from the various shrine priests. During these years I could travel with Yamamoto Yukitaka Guji and also visit many shrines guided by the Kannushi of Tsubaki Okami Yashiro.

Tsubaki Shrine in Mie Precture

 

In-between various lessons I would stay in the samushyo (shrine office) and observe various phases of shrine operation—I could also help prepare for various events and ceremonies. It was a really magical period and I am a little nostalgic to think of those days. The shrine priests and staff were incredibly kind to me and patient with me as well— my responsibilities were not so great.  I was able to totally focus on my training and working to know Sarutahiko Okami.

This was the time period of my building Kannagara Dojo/ Jinja for my own training in Gyo and to introduce other Aikido people from around the world to the practices of Jinja Shinto. I was also of course studying Kojiki and kotodama, as well as practicing daily Misogi Shuho (purification) in free flowing water (I could practice since 1975 or so, and every day from summer of 1992 until the present).

Misogi on the grounds of Tsubaki America. Rev. Barrish is second from the left, with Yamamoto Yukiyasu Guji on one side and Rev. Anne Evans on the other

In any case at some point Yamamoto Yukitaka Guji decided I should receive the Jinja Shinto License…I still remember very vividly receiving the phone call and having that discussion. At that point I trained in saho (manners of conducting various ceremonies) for an additional month or so and was able to receive the entry level license in 1995.  Over the next few years I began to conduct ceremonies, mainly for Aikido people, while continuing my training at Tsubaki Okami Yashiro in Japan. I became more and more busy as the Shinto priest, conducting many many ceremonies while continuing to try to improve myself… I was able to become the Gon-Negi/ assistant senior priest and then the Negi/ senior priest.

3) Before the establishment of the Tsubaki branch shrine, I believe you operated your own shrine.  How did that work?

The history of Tsubaki Grand Shrine in America is that it was first established in 1986 in Stockton California – a non-profit organization was begun and a series of Shinto Priests from Tsubaki Okami Yashiro (Tsubaki Grand Shrine in Japan) served at Tsubaki America introducing Jinja Shinto in North America.

In 1992 I was able to build Kannagara Dojo and Jinja independently to enshrine Tsubaki Okamisama, and as a shrine for Gyo (training) in such things as Misogi Shuho (water purification), Chinkon Gyo-Ho (Shinto active meditation) and Aiki movement. In 1995 I became the fully licensed Shrine Shinto Priest and we began to use the name Tsubaki Kannagara Jinja for my shrine. A few years later I received the license of Guji of Tsubaki Kannagara Jinja….Yamamoto Yukitaka Guji was really proud of our accomplishment here and would always introduce me as Kannagara Guji.

The present shrine buildings

Around 1997 we were “discovered” by the community of Japanese people living in the Pacific Northwest and became busier and busier as the Jinja Shinto Shrine. Then in 2001 the Matsuri Foundation gifted 17 acres of land adjacent to Tsubaki Kannagara shrine grounds to the Tsubaki America entity. At that time the decision was made to combine Tsubaki America and Tsubaki Kannagara Jinja at the sacred site of Kannagara Jinja.

In May of 2001 we closed the Stockton shrine and began to operate as America Tsubaki Okami Yashiro (Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America). We used the proceeds of the sale of the Stockton property to build the Kaikan (guest house) and we began to build the Sukeikai (members group).

4) In establishing the Tsubaki branch shrine, what were the biggest challenges and obstacles you faced?

Well, we are always day by day doing our utmost to improve ourselves and our Jinja. When we became more and more active as the Jinja in the late 1990’s, we had to begin to learn how to create and organize systems of operation…of course we have the ideal example and support of Yamamoto Yukiyasu Guji, the 97th High Priest of Tsubaki Okami Yashiro. Also my wife who is Japanese and has the strong business background works tirelessly as shrine manager–always seeking to improve our operations and the experience for sanpaisya (worshippers). Because of her inspired hard work, I am free to concentrate on gyo and ritual which remain my prime interest—-so we are constantly trying to evolve.  Of course our challenges are to operate, support and care for the Jinja, as well as do our utmost to meet the spiritual needs and care for the shrine visitors in happy times and sad times.

A full house at Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America

 

For Part Two of this interview, please click here.

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